Cycling Advice

[Fat Chance]

Gravel...is a new term for sales...mountain bikes havent always been fully loaded...if you are not jumping off houses what do ya want discs for ( to drag up hills )...what do you really want bouncy suss for on a trail...if youve not got a suss fork youll soon learn to pick a line. Most of them 90's steel frames are 4.5lb or less...load the frame up with shimano xt components and the lot will come out at about 25lb and half a grand and last another 30yrs.

Kid come off the top of holmes at 50mph and halfway down one leg of his carbon fork fell off the bike...air ambulance job on a sunday to rescue him....not everything new is designed for decades of use.

Professional riders are getting paid dough to ride road racing bikes....ask a physio how he rates the position for long term use....like i said earlier i wouldnt dream of owning one.

 

[chesterbells]

Regularly clean and lubricate your chain, and make sure your pivot points on your front/rear derailleur are lubricated. That should keep your drivetrain tip-top, and prevent chain issues. Last thing you want is your chain giving way as you push down hard on the peddles. Also clean and lubricate your brake/gear cables where they meet the cable outer to keep them running freely.

Always wipe off any excess oil as it will attract grit and dirt.

GCN have loads of videos on the subject.

Thanks for this. Had a look at the video and tried to replicate it this aft. Not too bothered about how the bike looks, but if it leads to more efficient and longer use I’ll be happy.
What do you mean by ‘pivot points’ on the derailleurs btw? I’ve just started getting an issue where it’s becoming impossible to move the chain on to the the big ring at the front using the levers, after 3 years or so of it being fine/doable after 2 or 3 goes.

 

[AkanjisAfro]

Nathan Harmston on strava if anyone’s on it

 

[inchy14]

Nathan Harmston on strava if anyone’s on it

You the one in winsford ? There’s 2 on there mate.

 

[Trevor Morley's Tache]

Thanks for this. Had a look at the video and tried to replicate it this aft. Not too bothered about how the bike looks, but if it leads to more efficient and longer use I’ll be happy.
What do you mean by ‘pivot points’ on the derailleurs btw? I’ve just started getting an issue where it’s becoming impossible to move the chain on to the the big ring at the front using the levers, after 3 years or so of it being fine/doable after 2 or 3 goes.

Pivot points are points where where the derailleur moves or flexes, usually, pivot points are held together by a rivet or pin. They can get quire sticky if you don't keep them clean and lubricated and may be the source of your problem.

Given that you are struggling to get the chain on the big ring, it could be that your cable needs lubricating, or your cable may have stretched since it was last set up Put the chain on the big ring, by hand if you have to and then with the bike stationary set your shift to the smallest cog but leave the chain on the big ring. This should make your cable loose so that you can remove the outer cables from the lugs on the frame and at the shifter. you can then apply some light oil (GT85 or chain oil) to the inner cables and then slide the outers up and down to ensure you get oil into them. Put everything back in place and then try your shifting again.

If that doesn't work, or your inner cables are clearly corroded then I would probably change your cables. If the cables are clean and it is still not working try turning the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise half a turn and see if that helps.

 

[chesterbells]

Pivot points are points where where the derailleur moves or flexes, usually, pivot points are held together by a rivet or pin. They can get quire sticky if you don't keep them clean and lubricated and may be the source of your problem.

Given that you are struggling to get the chain on the big ring, it could be that your cable needs lubricating, or your cable may have stretched since it was last set up Put the chain on the big ring, by hand if you have to and then with the bike stationary set your shift to the smallest cog but leave the chain on the big ring. This should make your cable loose so that you can remove the outer cables from the lugs on the frame and at the shifter. you can then apply some light oil (GT85 or chain oil) to the inner cables and then slide the outers up and down to ensure you get oil into them. Put everything back in place and then try your shifting again.

If that doesn't work, or your inner cables are clearly corroded then I would probably change your cables. If the cables are clean and it is still not working try turning the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise half a turn and see if that helps.

Much appreciated, thanks for the reply.
The other (rear) cable actually snapped on me last August, a part of the way round The Tour de Anglesey, which made the last 60km of the ride a memorable one. Looking back, I should’ve replaced this one too at the same time. I will try your advice first though, ta.

 

[Trevor Morley's Tache]

Gravel...is a new term for sales...mountain bikes havent always been fully loaded...if you are not jumping off houses what do ya want discs for ( to drag up hills )...what do you really want bouncy suss for on a trail...if youve not got a suss fork youll soon learn to pick a line. Most of them 90's steel frames are 4.5lb or less...load the frame up with shimano xt components and the lot will come out at about 25lb and half a grand and last another 30yrs.

Kid come off the top of holmes at 50mph and halfway down one leg of his carbon fork fell off the bike...air ambulance job on a sunday to rescue him....not everything new is designed for decades of use.

Professional riders are getting paid dough to ride road racing bikes....ask a physio how he rates the position for long term use....like i said earlier i wouldnt dream of owning one.

Gravel bikes are essentially road bikes with greater clearance for bigger tyres and a more relaxed geometry. They certainly aren't for smashing up and down serious off road trails.

Older cyclocross bikes on the other hand were basically none suspension mountain bikes with drop handlebars. Given the right tyres you could certainly get away with harder terrain.

 

[bluemcr]

Gravel...is a new term for sales...mountain bikes havent always been fully loaded...if you are not jumping off houses what do ya want discs for ( to drag up hills )...what do you really want bouncy suss for on a trail...if youve not got a suss fork youll soon learn to pick a line. Most of them 90's steel frames are 4.5lb or less...load the frame up with shimano xt components and the lot will come out at about 25lb and half a grand and last another 30yrs.

Kid come off the top of holmes at 50mph and halfway down one leg of his carbon fork fell off the bike...air ambulance job on a sunday to rescue him....not everything new is designed for decades of use.

Professional riders are getting paid dough to ride road racing bikes....ask a physio how he rates the position for long term use....like i said earlier i wouldnt dream of owning one.

90s mountain bikes or road bikes was a golden era for quality build and components. Steel is real only bike I ride.

 

[Fat Chance]

Gravel bikes are essentially road bikes with greater clearance for bigger tyres and a more relaxed geometry. They certainly aren't for smashing up and down serious off road trails.

Essentially road bikes....with heavier frames, fatter tyres disc brakes and different geometry ...a bit like.....
Not dropping off houses implys maybe not smashing up and down serious off road trails.

 

[Fat Chance]

90s mountain bikes or road bikes was a golden era for quality build and components. Steel is real only bike I ride.

The manafacturers say if youve accidentally dropped your bike or had a spill and your set with carbon handlebars...that show no defect...'.bin em.'.. i dont know what the rule is for frames....

If humans had invented steel tmw it would be the new wonder material.