DIY Help - Thanks!

jrb

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 Oct 2008
Messages
37,070
If anyone can help me, I’d really appreciate it.

Trying to fit a new Dudley Beta+ brass tail side inlet float vale, replacing the old one which is constantly dripping from the plastic spout inside the cistern. The metal water stand pipe to the cistern has a small circular valve, which I assume turns the water off to the cistern? I was told to use a small screwdriver, put it in the hole, turn it, and that will turn the water off to the cistern. I’ve tried that, but the screwdriver isn’t gripping inside hole, it’s just turning, and the value isn’t turning. Thought about using an Alan key, but I don’t know if that will work, and I don’t want to damage the valve. I appreciate I can turn the water off at the stop tap, but I’d rather keep the water on and turn the water off at the pipe if possible?

I appreciate somebody will say get a Plumber, but I’d like to have a go at it myself first. :-)

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You’ll need to turn off the stop cock if isolation valve not working.
you see the screw on top of the arm you can wind this in to put more pressure on the rubber seal. Looks like yours has lots of adjustment.
flush toilet and screw this in half way, worth a try first
 
You’ll need to turn off the stop cock if isolation valve not working.
you see the screw on top of the arm you can wind this in to put more pressure on the rubber seal. Looks like yours has lots of adjustment.
flush toilet and screw this in half way, worth a try first
The screw on top of the arm is all the way back. The spout is still dripping constantly or running water at times. The ball float stops we’ll above the water mark in the cistern. The cistern lid actually pushes the ball float down, it’s that high up.

Thanks, mate.
 
The screw on top of the arm is all the way back. The spout is still dripping constantly or running water at times. The ball float stops we’ll above the water mark in the cistern. The cistern lid actually pushes the ball float down, it’s that high up.

Thanks, mate.
I can see it’s all the way back, it needs to be screwed in the other way that’s why your float is so high.
 
Wind out lock nut to the right halfway down the treads, flush toilet then screw it in so locknut hits the stop.
 
If anyone can help me, I’d really appreciate it.

Trying to fit a new Dudley Beta+ brass tail side inlet float vale, replacing the old one which is constantly dripping from the plastic spout inside the cistern. The metal water stand pipe to the cistern has a small circular valve, which I assume turns the water off to the cistern? I was told to use a small screwdriver, put it in the hole, turn it, and that will turn the water off to the cistern. I’ve tried that, but the screwdriver isn’t gripping inside hole, it’s just turning, and the value isn’t turning. Thought about using an Alan key, but I don’t know if that will work, and I don’t want to damage the valve. I appreciate I can turn the water off at the stop tap, but I’d rather keep the water on and turn the water off at the pipe if possible?

I appreciate somebody will say get a Plumber, but I’d like to have a go at it myself first. :-)

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Has Arthur Negus seen those photos?
 
Firstly, thanks to everyone for the advice. Much appreciated. :-)

Secondly, like most people I’m not great at DIY person bar painting, steady hand, but I’ll have a go at most things.

It’s only taken 2.5 hours, (Lol!) but I think I’ve done it. Done a few flushes and all seems ok. Suffered a bit of water damage to the ceiling below, water running down the pipe, through a small hole in the toilet floor. Didn’t turn the water tap off fully or put a towel down under the bowl on the toilet floor. Arrrgh! My fault.

The red circular clip on top of the arm was catching on the blue middle section of the cistern every time I flushed the toilet, so I’ve had to position the arm and ball float like that. The cistern fills to just under the water line, which I’m happy with.

What’s the cost of having an isolation valve fitted to the water pipe?

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