Central heating radiators

[flyer]

I need to change one of these, but although I'm decent with mechanical work I'm no plumbing expert. From what I can see I think it's fairly straight forward but if you know better then I'd be happy to hear your advice.

1 Turn off the valves on either side of the rad
2 Slightly open one of the unions, open the bleed valve and catch the water from the rad
3 When empty undo the unions and remove the rad from the brackets
4 Fit new rad, use sealant on unions
5 Open valves and allow rad to fill then close bleed valve.

Is that it? Does the system top itself up to replace the water from stage 2? This is a 2 year old combi boiler made by Vaillant

 

[west didsblue]

I need to change one of these, but although I'm decent with mechanical work I'm no plumbing expert. From what I can see I think it's fairly straight forward but if you know better then I'd be happy to hear your advice.

1 Turn off the valves on either side of the rad
2 Slightly open one of the unions, open the bleed valve and catch the water from the rad
3 When empty undo the unions and remove the rad from the brackets
4 Fit new rad, use sealant on unions
5 Open valves and allow rad to fill then close bleed valve.

Is that it? Does the system top itself up to replace the water from stage 2? This is a 2 year old combi boiler made by Vaillant

No the system won't top itself up. There will be a filling point, probably built into the boiler. You'll have to fill it until the pressure is up to about 1 bar. There will be pressure gauge on the boiler.

 

[york away to this!]

Yet another thread begging BM for helpful assistance.

I shall look forward to each and every response.

(PS - is it a bunny boiler? if so, simply PM jots...)

 

[Chippy_boy]

No the system won't top itself up. There will be a filling point, probably built into the boiler. You'll have to fill it until the pressure is up to about 1 bar. There will be pressure gauge on the boiler.

Probably true. Although the filling point and expansion tank may be in the airing cupboard by the hot water tank.

However, if it's an old system, it *may* have a gravity feed from an expansion tank in the loft (with a float valve etc.) In which case it would fill itself up.

 

[west didsblue]

Probably true.

However, if it's an old system, it *may* have a gravity feed from an expansion tank in the loft (with a float valve etc.) In which case it would fill itself up.

He said it's a two year old combi so it will almost definitely be a pressurised system not a gravity fed one.

 

[tiggsywiggsywoo]

Normally the valves either side of the rad are in need of replacing, if so you will have to drain the system. If you need new valves don't assume the nut on the other side of the olive will fit the new valve. You may need an olive splitter in order to use the compression nut that comes with the valve.

 

[Dave Ewing's Back 'eader]

I need to change one of these, but although I'm decent with mechanical work I'm no plumbing expert. From what I can see I think it's fairly straight forward but if you know better then I'd be happy to hear your advice.

1 Turn off the valves on either side of the rad
2 Slightly open one of the unions, open the bleed valve and catch the water from the rad
3 When empty undo the unions and remove the rad from the brackets
4 Fit new rad, use sealant on unions
5 Open valves and allow rad to fill then close bleed valve.

Is that it? Does the system top itself up to replace the water from stage 2? This is a 2 year old combi boiler made by Vaillant

There's no such thing as 'fairly straightforward' with anything inside or outside yer house if yer fancy doing it yourself.

WARNING: ATTEMPTING TO REPLACE A SIMPLE RADIATOR MAY HAVE A SERIOUS EFFECT ON YOUR ROOF AND/OR DRIVE!

 

[Chippy_boy]

He said it's a two year old combi so it will almost definitely be a pressurised system not a gravity fed one.

Oops! Sorry I missed that.

 

[Centurions]

Normally the valves either side of the rad are in need of replacing, if so you will have to drain the system. If you need new valves don't assume the nut on the other side of the olive will fit the new valve. You may need an olive splitter in order to use the compression nut that comes with the valve.

Nonsense.

 

[Chippy_boy]

Normally the valves either side of the rad are in need of replacing, if so you will have to drain the system. If you need new valves don't assume the nut on the other side of the olive will fit the new valve. You may need an olive splitter in order to use the compression nut that comes with the valve.

And, if it's microbore, be VERY careful that you don't crimp the pipe trying to get the valves unscrewed (you probably will) or it will leak around the olive, forever.