Heat Pump

[Kompany Car]

I‘ve managed to dig out the double glazing paperwork. Bar the patio doors which were put in a couple of years ago, the rest of the double glazing was put in by CES windows. Dated 21/5/2012. Total price including VAT £4878.00.

There’s annoying plastic strips on the inside of the double glazing stuck on to the wooden window frames. Some of the sealant is loose and coming away around the window frames. There‘s small mold patches on some of the window frames.(which I’ll wipe off tomorrow) You can feel the draft around some of the window frames when it’s windy.

Pictures of some of the windows.

I think it’s time to replace the double glazing windows and doors, isn’t it?

Regarding solar panels. The front of the roof is north facing, the back of the roof is south facing. I pretty much get constant Sun/Sunlight when the Sun is out all day long from east to south across the right side and the back of the roof (and in my back garden), if you know what I mean?

Jesus mate that mold situation doesn't look great is that in a bathroom? If so you need to get a decent extractor fan fitted.

Modern windows do have trickle vents which can help with condensation, personally im not a fan of them even though they are mandatory on new buildings as it all seems a bit counter intuitive to have a well sealed window and then put holes in it.

The new high k glass can also help, one of our ensuite bathrooms is cut into the eaves and before we replaced the velux roof window with a new unit, it had a problem with condensation even though it had an extractor. Now the only condensation we get is on the outside pane of glass in spring and autumn which shows its keeping the heat in.

As a general point damp air (for a physics point of view) has a higher specific heat capacity than dry air. This means to raise the temperature of the same volume of air by 1 degree you need to put in more energy if the air is full of moisture.
So solving the condensation issue will result in a warmer house for less energy used.

 

[bluesince76]

I‘ve managed to dig out the double glazing paperwork. Bar the patio doors which were put in a couple of years ago, the rest of the double glazing was put in by CES windows. Dated 21/5/2012. Total price including VAT £4878.00.

There’s annoying plastic strips on the inside of the double glazing stuck on to the wooden window frames. Some of the sealant is loose and coming away around the window frames. There‘s small mold patches on some of the window frames.(which I’ll wipe off tomorrow) You can feel the draft around some of the window frames when it’s windy.

Pictures of some of the windows.

I think it’s time to replace the double glazing windows and doors, isn’t it?

Regarding solar panels. The front of the roof is north facing, the back of the roof is south facing. I pretty much get constant Sun/Sunlight when the Sun is out all day long from east to south across the right side and the back of the roof (and in my back garden), if you know what I mean?

That looks like condensation on the inside of the windows. If it is, replacing them won't help. You need to improve the ventilation and increase the temperature of the air.

Get yourself a Hygrometer - that's one I bought last year and connects to an app so you can track over days, weeks etc. Move it between rooms and see when and where you're getting the issues. Once you get above about 60% you'll start to see mold, but the 60% happens with less moisture at lower temperatures, hence needing to increase the ambient temperature.

if you wipe away the mold, thrown the cloth in the bin afterwards, or at least bleach it, otherwise you'll just be moving spores around. If there's a lot of black mold on walls, get something like this to kill it.
For a solar quote, try https://askrenewablesolutions.co.uk/ in Wigan. They did ours and we're the most proactive and had the best quote. It's all done from Google Maps initially, so no more than an email. I'd still consider just the batteries though and see what difference that would make to the quote. As long as you get an inverter that's suitable for solar, you can always add the panels at a later date, as it's the scaffolding for them that adds up. Our batteries are https://voltaconsolar.com/pylontech-us5000-lithium-battery.html and are literally plug and play, so you can get one and then keep adding to them over time

 

[jrb]

Jesus mate that mold situation doesn't look great is that in a bathroom? If so you need to get a decent extractor fan fitted.

Modern windows do have trickle vents which can help with condensation, personally im not a fan of them even though they are mandatory on new buildings as it all seems a bit counter intuitive to have a well sealed window and then put holes in it.

The new high k glass can also help, one of our ensuite bathrooms is cut into the eaves and before we replaced the velux roof window with a new unit, it had a problem with condensation even though it had an extractor. Now the only condensation we get is on the outside pane of glass in spring and autumn which shows its keeping the heat in.

As a general point damp air (for a physics point of view) has a higher specific heat capacity than dry air. This means to raise the temperature of the same volume of air by 1 degree you need to put in more energy if the air is full of moisture.
So solving the condensation issue will result in a warmer house for less energy used.

That looks like condensation on the inside of the windows. If it is, replacing them won't help. You need to improve the ventilation and increase the temperature of the air.

Get yourself a Hygrometer - that's one I bought last year and connects to an app so you can track over days, weeks etc. Move it between rooms and see when and where you're getting the issues. Once you get above about 60% you'll start to see mold, but the 60% happens with less moisture at lower temperatures, hence needing to increase the ambient temperature.

if you wipe away the mold, thrown the cloth in the bin afterwards, or at least bleach it, otherwise you'll just be moving spores around. If there's a lot of black mold on walls, get something like this to kill it.
For a solar quote, try https://askrenewablesolutions.co.uk/ in Wigan. They did ours and we're the most proactive and had the best quote. It's all done from Google Maps initially, so no more than an email. I'd still consider just the batteries though and see what difference that would make to the quote. As long as you get an inverter that's suitable for solar, you can always add the panels at a later date, as it's the scaffolding for them that adds up. Our batteries are https://voltaconsolar.com/pylontech-us5000-lithium-battery.html and are literally plug and play, so you can get one and then keep adding to them over time

Both of you. Thanks for the advice. I'll look at the links tomorrow on my day off.

TBH I've not had my heating on much this winter, so that probably explains the inside condensation and mold on the window/window frames?? (that's the stair window at the front of the house with mold on it) I've looked at buying a Meaco Dehumidifier recently, which I might still do. From the reviews they seem to do a good job of collecting moisture from.the air and drying rooms out relatively cheaply, plus they can be left on running.

 

[jrb]

The presence of cavity wall insulation is indicated by small drill holes around the external walls of a house, which have been sealed.

I'll have a look tomorrow.

 

[Scottyboi]

Both of you. Thanks for the advice. I'll look at the links tomorrow on my day off.

TBH I've not had my heating on much this winter, so that probably explains the inside condensation and mold on the window/window frames?? (that's the stair window at the front of the house with mold on it) I've looked at buying a Meaco Dehumidifier recently, which I might still do. From the reviews they seem to do a good job of collecting moisture from.the air and drying rooms out relatively cheaply, plus they can be left on running.

Don't need to replace the window frames, can buy the glass if the units have now failed and just refurb the seals and take them strips off and foam round the frame if there are gaps. I plan to do all this in the coming months, have to replace the hinges on a couple too, alot cheaper than fully replacing perfectly good frames.

 

[blumoonrisen]

I‘ve managed to dig out the double glazing paperwork. Bar the patio doors which were put in a couple of years ago, the rest of the double glazing was put in by CES windows. Dated 21/5/2012. Total price including VAT £4878.00.

There’s annoying plastic strips on the inside of the double glazing stuck on to the wooden window frames. Some of the sealant is loose and coming away around the window frames. There‘s small mold patches on some of the window frames.(which I’ll wipe off tomorrow) You can feel the draft around some of the window frames when it’s windy.

Pictures of some of the windows.

I think it’s time to replace the double glazing windows and doors, isn’t it?

Regarding solar panels. The front of the roof is north facing, the back of the roof is south facing. I pretty much get constant Sun/Sunlight when the Sun is out all day long from east to south across the right side and the back of the roof (and in my back garden), if you know what I mean?

Yeah it looks like the glazed units have blown. Personally I'd just replace the glass.

 

[Coatigan]

I‘ve managed to dig out the double glazing paperwork. Bar the patio doors which were put in a couple of years ago, the rest of the double glazing was put in by CES windows. Dated 21/5/2012. Total price including VAT £4878.00.

There’s annoying plastic strips on the inside of the double glazing stuck on to the wooden window frames. Some of the sealant is loose and coming away around the window frames. There‘s small mold patches on some of the window frames.(which I’ll wipe off tomorrow) You can feel the draft around some of the window frames when it’s windy.

Pictures of some of the windows.

I think it’s time to replace the double glazing windows and doors, isn’t it?

Regarding solar panels. The front of the roof is north facing, the back of the roof is south facing. I pretty much get constant Sun/Sunlight when the Sun is out all day long from east to south across the right side and the back of the roof (and in my back garden), if you know what I mean?

I'd say it is, looks like the seals and hinges are going or gone. It'll help the house thermally and the with the condensation, and as such a fair bit with the mold, although your ventilation might still need improvement. Plus not to mention windows today are even on a basic level on average twice as good as they were 20 years ago. If they make up say 25-30% of your external walls, that's circa a 15% improvement to your overall thermal performance of the house.

 

[Coatigan]

That looks like condensation on the inside of the windows. If it is, replacing them won't help. You need to improve the ventilation and increase the temperature of the air.

Get yourself a Hygrometer - that's one I bought last year and connects to an app so you can track over days, weeks etc. Move it between rooms and see when and where you're getting the issues. Once you get above about 60% you'll start to see mold, but the 60% happens with less moisture at lower temperatures, hence needing to increase the ambient temperature.

if you wipe away the mold, thrown the cloth in the bin afterwards, or at least bleach it, otherwise you'll just be moving spores around. If there's a lot of black mold on walls, get something like this to kill it.
For a solar quote, try https://askrenewablesolutions.co.uk/ in Wigan. They did ours and we're the most proactive and had the best quote. It's all done from Google Maps initially, so no more than an email. I'd still consider just the batteries though and see what difference that would make to the quote. As long as you get an inverter that's suitable for solar, you can always add the panels at a later date, as it's the scaffolding for them that adds up. Our batteries are https://voltaconsolar.com/pylontech-us5000-lithium-battery.html and are literally plug and play, so you can get one and then keep adding to them over time

Of course replacing the windows would help! It is condensing, because the inner face is too cold. That shouldn't be the case with good windows, even with moisture in the house (or should be rare). Ventilation is a big thing to help manage it, of course, but those windows are not performing. New seals that don't leak air and an inherently better thermal window and the dew point of that glass shifts from the inner face.

 

[bluesince76]

Of course replacing the windows would help! It is condensing, because the inner face is too cold. That shouldn't be the case with good windows, even with moisture in the house (or should be rare). Ventilation is a big thing to help manage it, of course, but those windows are not performing. New seals that don't leak air and an inherently better thermal window and the dew point of that glass shifts from the inner face.

If there's no heating, so it's say 15 degrees overnight and a bedroom with a couple of people breathing, you're going to get condensation with any double glazed unit as the glass will be the coldest place.

 

[Coatigan]

If there's no heating, so it's say 15 degrees overnight and a bedroom with a couple of people breathing, you're going to get condensation with any double glazed unit as the glass will be the coldest place.

Most likely, but I wouldn't have thought that was the setting for those photos. Could be wrong.

 

[remember arthur mann]

The system has worked in Scandinavia for years, apparently it's the installation teams that are not up to speed or clueless.

 

[jrb]

The system has worked in Scandinavia for years, apparently it's the installation teams that are not up to speed or clueless.

Just been on Heat Geek, typed in my address, amended my property details from 2 bathrooms to 1 bathroom and got a clear and well laid out instant quote for a heat pump, installation, heat Geek Assurance and yearly saving. You can’t fault that as there’s no hidden extras or a person doing they survey and coming up with a figure off the top of their head.

Heat Geek - Heat pump installs from the world's best installers

Heat Geek makes it easy for homeowners to save money on their bills with AI designed, efficient heat pump systems.

www.heatgeek.com

According to Heat Geek, my property isn’ eligible for a BUS grant. Out of interest, I’d like to find out why.

Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme

You could get a grant to install a heat pump or biomass boiler. Find out if you’re eligible and how to apply.

www.gov.uk

Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) - Property owners

Property Owners

www.ofgem.gov.uk

 

[diegoalv]

Just been on Heat Geek, typed in my address, amended my property details from 2 bathrooms to 1 bathroom and got a clear and well laid out instant quote for a heat pump, installation, heat Geek Assurance and yearly saving. You can’t fault that as there’s no hidden extras or a person doing they survey and coming up with a figure off the top of their head.

View attachment 103541

Heat Geek - Heat pump installs from the world's best installers

Heat Geek makes it easy for homeowners to save money on their bills with AI designed, efficient heat pump systems.

www.heatgeek.com

According to Heat Geek, my property isn’ eligible for a BUS grant. Out of interest, I’d like to find out why.

Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme

You could get a grant to install a heat pump or biomass boiler. Find out if you’re eligible and how to apply.

www.gov.uk

Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) - Property owners

Property Owners

www.ofgem.gov.uk

That doesn't make any sense. There is no point of installation this way. I was checking rhode island energy reviews these days, curious if they might have some better options for their customers. Anyone had experience with them? What can you say - good or bad?

 

[jrb]

That doesn't make any sense

What, £70 return a year or something else?

 

[Citizen of Legoland]

Don't need to replace the window frames, can buy the glass if the units have now failed and just refurb the seals and take them strips off and foam round the frame if there are gaps. I plan to do all this in the coming months, have to replace the hinges on a couple too, alot cheaper than fully replacing perfectly good frames.

Those tidy strips aren’t too bad once cleaned up. Just a mould spray (one where you need mask and gloves), peel off any old caulk and reapply mould resistant sealant (bathroom/kitchen grade) where there’s no painting needed like the windowsill. As you say though, it’s worth knowing the state of the walls under them, expect bits of plaster and plasterboard to come away. I found a gap to the outside world on one of my windows so had to pump expanding foam into it. Could start getting time consuming for anyone not keen on DIY.

 

[Kompany Car]

Just been on Heat Geek, typed in my address, amended my property details from 2 bathrooms to 1 bathroom and got a clear and well laid out instant quote for a heat pump, installation, heat Geek Assurance and yearly saving. You can’t fault that as there’s no hidden extras or a person doing they survey and coming up with a figure off the top of their head.

View attachment 103541

Heat Geek - Heat pump installs from the world's best installers

Heat Geek makes it easy for homeowners to save money on their bills with AI designed, efficient heat pump systems.

www.heatgeek.com

According to Heat Geek, my property isn’ eligible for a BUS grant. Out of interest, I’d like to find out why.

Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme

You could get a grant to install a heat pump or biomass boiler. Find out if you’re eligible and how to apply.

www.gov.uk

Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) - Property owners

Property Owners

www.ofgem.gov.uk

So spend £12k and get £70 per year back as savings. It would take you 171 yrs to recoup the outlay.

 

[Citizen of Legoland]

I’ve not had chance to read the thread but there was something on the BBC website about how they are starting to improve the temperature of these heat pumps. Not sure if already posted.

Will hotter heat pumps win over homeowners?

Could a new generation of heat pumps overcome British fears that they can't heat a home.

www.bbc.co.uk

Sounds promising that they might be improving.

 

[Citizen of Legoland]

Just been on Heat Geek, typed in my address, amended my property details from 2 bathrooms to 1 bathroom and got a clear and well laid out instant quote for a heat pump, installation, heat Geek Assurance and yearly saving. You can’t fault that as there’s no hidden extras or a person doing they survey and coming up with a figure off the top of their head.

View attachment 103541

Heat Geek - Heat pump installs from the world's best installers

Heat Geek makes it easy for homeowners to save money on their bills with AI designed, efficient heat pump systems.

www.heatgeek.com

According to Heat Geek, my property isn’ eligible for a BUS grant. Out of interest, I’d like to find out why.

Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme

You could get a grant to install a heat pump or biomass boiler. Find out if you’re eligible and how to apply.

www.gov.uk

Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) - Property owners

Property Owners

www.ofgem.gov.uk

Have you got a current EPC certificate on the property?

 

[Kompany Car]

Just been on Heat Geek, typed in my address, amended my property details from 2 bathrooms to 1 bathroom and got a clear and well laid out instant quote for a heat pump, installation, heat Geek Assurance and yearly saving. You can’t fault that as there’s no hidden extras or a person doing they survey and coming up with a figure off the top of their head.

View attachment 103541

Heat Geek - Heat pump installs from the world's best installers

Heat Geek makes it easy for homeowners to save money on their bills with AI designed, efficient heat pump systems.

www.heatgeek.com

According to Heat Geek, my property isn’ eligible for a BUS grant. Out of interest, I’d like to find out why.

Apply for the Boiler Upgrade Scheme

You could get a grant to install a heat pump or biomass boiler. Find out if you’re eligible and how to apply.

www.gov.uk

Boiler Upgrade Scheme (BUS) - Property owners

Property Owners

www.ofgem.gov.uk

Yep as @Citizen of Legoland said you need an EPC. Just had a look at mine and it’s 17k without the discount, 9.5k with the discount and will save about £330 per year so it’s still around 29 yrs to break even.

They need to make it cheaper so the break even is around 8-10yrs, which pushing it, is about the life of a good combi boiler.

 

[jrb]

So spend £12k and get £70 per year back as savings. It would take you 171 yrs to recoup the outlay.

I agree with you. I did a double take when I saw that. i’ll probably be dead in 30 years or sooner. I’m 56 years old.