Finally got time to write a bit more about Alphonse so look away from this long post now if you’re not interested.
If you can ever afford it, do it. It’s beyond anything I’ve experienced in fishing and I never thought I’d be interested in saltwater fly-fishing for exotic fish. But it does grip you.
Small to medium Bonefish are actually easy to catch. The advantage Alphonse has over other locations is the sheer number of fish. You fish for them standing in the water on a 9 weight rod and line with a 20lbs leader using a small crab-like fly that you strip slowly along the bottom. You can generally see the fish as they move backwards and forwards with the tide over the flats. They have a ghostly appearance and can be more clearly seen from the skiff (I didn’t know, but it’s a flat-bottomed boat which can be motored out to the islands and then poled around the shallow water. It has a raised platform at the back so the guide gets a better view of approaching fish). Quite often you see the bigger specimens from the boat but, invariably, when you have a 12 weight in your hand and a big GT fly on. By the time you have changed rods, they have melted away. When you hook one, they don’t half go. Longer and harder than barbel I would say. I’ve still got the scab on my line-finger to prove it.
It has to be said, there’s something magical about standing in knee-deep, warm water casting at fish you can see. Bear in mind, though, that it’s a tropical climate and, therefore, rains a lot. It poured down when we were arriving, teemed down as we were leaving and pissed down for a lot of the time we were there. On the odd occasion the sun comes out (and even when it doesn’t) the sun is blistering, hence the clobber. It is hard to get your gear dry and, as you go everywhere by bike on the island, your arse is always wet from the saddle.
The main quarry, of course, are Giant Trevally or GTs or Geets. These are measured in cms rather than by weight. 60 cms is about average (mine was 59 cms measured). One was caught on a popper in the deep water measuring 122cms while we were there. I would say that, during the week we were there, there were around 25 GTs caught between 10 or so anglers. They usually swim alongside a ray or shark and the guides can spot whether there is a GT on the ray or shark or whether they are “empty”. How they can discern this, I never discovered, certainly I couldn’t spot them. The guide having identified that a fish is “carrying” you cast the fly near it from the boat and strip quickly. If you are lucky the GT will follow and that is quite heart-stopping. More often, you spook them and they bugger off or follow the fly but you miss a strip or run out of room and they sense something isn’t right and, then, bugger off. Another thing this sort of fishing has in common with all other types of fishing is that it’s never just right. If the guide manages to manoeuvre the boat so you are upwind of the fish, one will appear directly behind you. If you have a bone rod in your hand, a GT will appear and vice versa.
Sometimes you see a big fish bow-waving in the shallows and then you pursue them to try to get the fly in front of them. My mate and the guide chased one for miles on the last day and left me dragging the boat to catch up. He got a fly to it which it followed but turned away. They reckoned it was a 100cms fish.
The other fish anglers try to catch are Trigger Fish which you often spot on the flats by a bright red and black tail wafting above the water as they feed head down. The holy grail is the Permit which are rare. My first cast of the trip was to a Permit which, of course, I ballsed up much to the guide’s chagrin. I never saw another. Both these fish are spooky as anything. I had a Trigger follow my fly one day but he sheered of when he saw my face.
One day, as we headed out across the deep water to the flats, the guide spotted a load of birds circling. He told me to drop my GT fly over the side and pay out line which I did. Within 30 seconds a Tuna had grabbed my fly and I was doing battle. After about 30 seconds, it came off but, before I could retrieve, another took it. I managed to play this one for ages and got it right next to the boat. However, the fly popped out and I never saw the fish.
Another day, we were fishing the drop off and the guide changed my fly. Because the fly is bulky, it pays to dip it in the water so that when you cast it for the first time, it sinks. I dropped it over the side of the boat and was dragging it backwards and forwards when a monster GT loomed up right below it. I couldn’t believe my eyes and wasn’t sure what to do so I dragged it backwards and forwards some more which was a bit daft. The guide, who had been messing around with the engine whilst this went on, told me to cast and retrieve which I did but to no avail.
The whole area is a conservation zone and there are studies going on into the manta rays, which ghost around and the GTs. My GT hadn’t been tagged so the guide did the honours, taking the vital measurements and injecting a chip, so it can be monitored in the future.
Other fish we saw included sailfish, manta rays, eagle rays, parrot fish, monkfish, batfish, lemon sharks, tiger sharks, sand sharks and sea turtles of various types which were a pain in the arse as they scutter away through the water like chickens disturbing the fish.
To wrap up here’s me with my first bonefish and this is about the average size.
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