Cycling Advice

[Trevor Morley's Tache]

I’ll do the occasional session on my bike when my Achilles stops me running and I just use my bog standard Halfords mountain bike that I bought to potter round with the kids on when they were little. Dead heavy, gears don’t seem great etc. Often toyed with the idea of forking out for something more sophisticated but wouldn’t use it enough to justify the cost. Also am I daft to think that the worse the bike is the harder you have to work and so counter intuitively fitness wise it’s beneficial to have a crap bike ?

With a 'crap bike' you will be working harder than someone on a high end bike to achieve the same speed. Their average power output will be significantly lower than yours.

If you get your bike set up optimally, then it should be more than adequate. Get your gears shifting properly, and you should be okay. More expensive groupsets are generally lighter and stiffer, and shift gear more quickly and smoother than low end components. In reality most bikes are fairly even on the flat given similar gearing and rolling resistance. Even aero-bikes don't really give you that much saving in terms of cost per watt saved. You might gain a small advantage with more efficient bearings, and better power transfer through the gears/chain, but it's fairly marginal for your average cyclist.

The biggest issue you have with cheaper bikes in general is the weight. The heavier the bike, the harder it is to peddle up hill. Even an shallow incline can feel difficult on a heavy bike. Depend where you intend to ride, but if it's on the road probably the best bang for buck on your old mountain bike would be to stick some lower rolling resistance tyres on. Knobbly tyres are crap on a smoother surface.

 

[Boris Becker’s Backhand]

With a 'crap bike' you will be working harder than someone on a high end bike to achieve the same speed. Their average power output will be significantly lower than yours.

If you get your bike set up optimally, then it should be more than adequate. Get your gears shifting properly, and you should be okay. More expensive groupsets are generally lighter and stiffer, and shift gear more quickly and smoother than low end components. In reality most bikes are fairly even on the flat given similar gearing and rolling resistance. Even aero-bikes don't really give you that much saving in terms of cost per watt saved. You might gain a small advantage with more efficient bearings, and better power transfer through the gears/chain, but it's fairly marginal for your average cyclist.

The biggest issue you have with cheaper bikes in general is the weight. The heavier the bike, the harder it is to peddle up hill. Even an shallow incline can feel difficult on a heavy bike. Depend where you intend to ride, but if it's on the road probably the best bang for buck on your old mountain bike would be to stick some lower rolling resistance tyres on. Knobbly tyres are crap on a smoother surface.

Thanks for that pal. You’ve hit the nail on the head re hills, proper hard work on this thing and I live in quite a hilly area so it’s hard to avoid them.

Only ride on main roads so I’ll look into those tyres you mention. Are they more susceptible to punctures ?

 

[Trevor Morley's Tache]

Thanks for that pal. You’ve hit the nail on the head re hills, proper hard work on this thing and I live in quite a hilly area so it’s hard to avoid them.

Only ride on main roads so I’ll look into those tyres you mention. Are they more susceptible to punctures ?

I'm guessing 26" x 1.5"?

Something like this would be fine.
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...s-slick-hybrid-bike-tyre-26-x-1.5-466477.html
For extra protection from punctures maybe look for something with kevlar.

 

[AkanjisAfro]

You the one in winsford ? There’s 2 on there mate.

That’s me (winsford wheelers)

 

[Mazzarelli's Swiss Cheese]

With a 'crap bike' you will be working harder than someone on a high end bike to achieve the same speed. Their average power output will be significantly lower than yours.

If you get your bike set up optimally, then it should be more than adequate. Get your gears shifting properly, and you should be okay. More expensive groupsets are generally lighter and stiffer, and shift gear more quickly and smoother than low end components. In reality most bikes are fairly even on the flat given similar gearing and rolling resistance. Even aero-bikes don't really give you that much saving in terms of cost per watt saved. You might gain a small advantage with more efficient bearings, and better power transfer through the gears/chain, but it's fairly marginal for your average cyclist.

The biggest issue you have with cheaper bikes in general is the weight. The heavier the bike, the harder it is to peddle up hill. Even an shallow incline can feel difficult on a heavy bike. Depend where you intend to ride, but if it's on the road probably the best bang for buck on your old mountain bike would be to stick some lower rolling resistance tyres on. Knobbly tyres are crap on a smoother surface.

I remeber in my 20's lusting after a seat post that would save me 50g. Now I'm 4 stone heavier I'm not sure it matters :-(

 

[Boris Becker’s Backhand]

I'm guessing 26" x 1.5"?

Something like this would be fine.
https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...s-slick-hybrid-bike-tyre-26-x-1.5-466477.html
For extra protection from punctures maybe look for something with kevlar.

Appreciate the advice, cheers

 

[johnnytapia]

Thanks for that pal. You’ve hit the nail on the head re hills, proper hard work on this thing and I live in quite a hilly area so it’s hard to avoid them.

Only ride on main roads so I’ll look into those tyres you mention. Are they more susceptible to punctures ?

Best advice on cycling comes from The Man:

• Ride as much or as little, or as long or as short as you feel. But ride.
• Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades

 

[shevtheblue]

I did the Northface trail but got lost trying to make my way back to the B&B off road. Was a long day out and I haven't fancied going back.

I suppose you had a bad experience. IIRC we just made a day of it and left just as the place was closing, some good rides to be had there.

I went Clayton Vale a while back as i couldn't get out anywhere far, wow what a shit hole.

 

[give it to gordon]

The biggest mistake alot of rides do around here is have their saddle to high. Rocking and rolling all over the bike !

 

[Trevor Morley's Tache]

The biggest mistake alot of rides do around here is have their saddle to high. Rocking and rolling all over the bike !

Seen that a lot recently. Saddle too low with knee's not over the pedals is just as bad.

I used a Go Pro and a bar mount to record my peddling action to help fine tune my riding position. It helped sort my knee pain out in next to no time.