Cycling Advice

How often do you change the chain ? Rule of thumb is roughly every 2,000 miles and then the cassette should last at least 3 times as long. The cassette will last longer if you change chains at the right time.
I've got a chain checker, and I put on a new chain once it gets beyond .75% worn. I never let them get beyond 1%

I'm on my 4th chain in about 18 months, and at least the 6th on this cassette. I keep my chains pretty clean, and I switched from oil to wax lube on my last change. I guess I've been pretty lucky for it to last this long.
 
Cheers for that reply - I’ve got the same issue and was hoping a change of chain might do the trick - it’s a quite straightforward and low cost job isn’t it?
You'll need a chain tool, but it's a straightforward job to change.

Top tip though: Strip the gloopy crap off the new chain first and then relube with a quality wet lube (Finish Line wet lube is pretty good) which will last a bit longer until you need to relube. You are aiming to get the oil into the inner roll pins. Wipe off any excess and your chain should attract less dirt.
 
I've got a chain checker, and I put on a new chain once it gets beyond .75% worn. I never let them get beyond 1%

I'm on my 4th chain in about 18 months, and at least the 6th on this cassette. I keep my chains pretty clean, and I switched from oil to wax lube on my last change. I guess I've been pretty lucky for it to last this long.
Ok. Sounds like you know what you are doing. The cassette is probably worn.

Another benefit of riding fixed in winter, especially if commuting a lot in bad weather, is that you reduce wear on the more expensive geared bikes. Somebody was saying on here a couple of months back that they didn't understand using fixed on road and they should be on the track only. I tried to explain the reasons.
 
Ok. Sounds like you know what you are doing. The cassette is probably worn.

Another benefit of riding fixed in winter, especially if commuting a lot in bad weather, is that you reduce wear on the more expensive geared bikes. Somebody was saying on here a couple of months back that they didn't understand using fixed on road and they should be on the track only. I tried to explain the reasons.

Depends if you are using a flip flop on the fixed, I wouldn’t fancy using my track bike on the roads plus I spend far too much time cleaning the tyres with white vinegar
 
Ok. Sounds like you know what you are doing. The cassette is probably worn.

Another benefit of riding fixed in winter, especially if commuting a lot in bad weather, is that you reduce wear on the more expensive geared bikes. Somebody was saying on here a couple of months back that they didn't understand using fixed on road and they should be on the track only. I tried to explain the reasons.
I'd love a fixie but the hills would kill me. Since I lost a load of fitness through injury I'm barely making it up on 44-32. Before injury I was comfortable at 44-26.

It certainly takes a lot of maintenance in the winter to keep the gears running smoothly.
 
I'd love a fixie but the hills would kill me. Since I lost a load of fitness through injury I'm barely making it up on 44-32. Before injury I was comfortable at 44-26.

It certainly takes a lot of maintenance in the winter to keep the gears running smoothly.
Yes, the fixed is no good if the route is too hilly.

My fixed gear is 42-17 which I think is 20 mph at 100 rpm cadence. It was ideal when I was a bit younger, fitter and regularly commuting. But probably a bit too big a gear for me now.
 

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