Ric has kindly allowed me to post some info on your forthcoming Napoli trip.
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h338/pete12011/pulcinello.jpg
So where are you going?? Napoli is known as Partenopeo (Parthenopy), Città e Pulicenella (city of Punch - the famous Neapolitan character). Let's pull no
punches...some of you will return loving this iconic city and the rest will hate it with a vengance. It's Love or Hate, no in between!!!! It's edgy, it's
vibrant, it's beautiful, it's ugly,it has a soul, it's chaotic, it's coloured with grafitti, it's musical, it's got more history than the rest of Italy
combined, it's tragic, it's neglected, It's contradictory, it's full of innovative people operating on the margins of civilisation struggling to survive. In
a word it's beautiful and fascinating. Watch the traffic in the busy areas somehow everyone reaches their destination, my brother described it as a 'single
moving organism'. Somehow this city survives against all the odds (with no thanks to the Italian state). I have been going here ever since I was a little
kid....and used to marvel at the Scugnizzi (street urchins) jumping on the back of trams for a free ride!!!! Now they all own scooters)
It's controlled by the Camorra clans that the Italian government have allowed to flourish. Corruption is layered in this city, and the people have had
enough. A new energetic mayor battles constantly to try to improve the city but hits constant barriers. Napoli has its own UNESCO protected language although
the locals also speak Italian. They are fiercely proud of their heritage and do not consider themselves Italians...conversley the Italians of the North agree
that they are not Italians!!!
Once you arrive get the transport map from your hotel or tourist information booth. With great public transport You can easily get anywhere you want.
Vesuvio last blew in 1944 so it's due another explosion. The last earthquake was in the 1980's. Napoli straddles 2 active volcanic areas. Vesuvius and Campi
Flegrea (Fields of fire). You can visit Solfatara at Pozzuoli if you wish to see steaming fumeroles pouring out gasses and steam. 1 million people live on
top of this unstable environment and it's bound to affect their view of life. You can't stereotype the population of a city because there are all facets of
people and generalisations are wrong. If I were asked to sum up the average Neapolitan I would say energetic, passionate, full of humour, a sense of irony,
superstitious, tolerant of immigrants, obeys the laws they see as common sense but b*llocks to the rest, very proud of their unique heritage, a bit
indifferent to the rest of Italy because they feel discriminated against.
One of the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, and the most populated and richest city in europe in the 1600's. The DNA of the Neapolitanis made
up of a cocktail of flavours going back almost 3000 years that is unique in the Italian peninsular. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish, Germans,
even Yanks and Brits have left a legacy in Napoli in 1943. Spanish influence is huge on their language and culture, the mandolin, guitar, tambourine,
accordion, and castanets are peculiar to Napoli and the tarantella dance. Up until 1861 Napoli was one of the main 4 cities of Europe on a par with London,
Paris and Vienna and part of the 'Grand Tour'. Goethe described it as a 'a paradise occupied by devils'. Nelson described it 'as country of fiddlers and
poets, whores and scoundrels'. Unifiction saw Napoli stripped of all its wealth, and taxed into poverty. So dire were conditions that 6 million people left
the port of Napoli between 1860-1910. This emigration continues to this day as Italy shamefully pretends Napoli doesn't exist. Napoli suffered horrndously in
WW2. Bombed by Yanks, Brits and Germans 20,000 people died and 100,000 were made homeless. The Neapolitans drove the Germans out in the fabled '4 days of
October' as the allies landed in nearby Salerno. For this the city was awarded 'The Gold Medal of Valour'. Even young Scugnizzi took up arms.
San Paolo is as close as you will get to South American type fans in Europe. Very passionate and very loud. Proper fans that are not bankrolled by the club
as you get in the North of Italy. Like City they are well supported and even had a gate of 51,000 when they were in serie C a few years back. Napoli will
always struggle to compete with the Northern clubs because of finances...but they are doing their best...but it is always difficult for them to hang onto
their star players.
1. Don't hire a car...traffic lights are merely ornaments..and the amount of motorini (scooters) is unbelievable. Use public transport it is cheap and well integrated
and saves you the hassle of driving. From memory you pay euro 1.60 for 2 hours travel within the city. The 2 hours start when you validate your ticket on the
little machine in the bus or at train station. Make sure you do it or if you get caught you pay 100 times the value of the ticket. A ticket entitles you to
more than 1 journey within the city limits. So you can use all modes of transport (buses, trams, metro, trains, and funiculars) for a period of 2 hours with
the same ticket...now that is VFM.
who needs traffic lights...see link below ( and this is one of the quieter times!!!)...Recommendation - DON'T DRIVE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnFFdgWR2Q8
You can see only 50% wear helmets even though it is law...as I said Neapolitans only obey the laws that suit them!!!!!
2. Taxi drivers...they all nutters and great fun but ask for a price before you get in...or insist the meter is switched on. Only use official city taxis
(usually white in colour)
3. A Neapolitan told me there are 3 prices in the city. 1 price for Neapolitans, 1 price for Italian tourists, and 1 price for other tourists. No one will
get offended if you discuss prices.) If you get rippped YOU are to blame...learn the phrase Quanta costa..(how much?)
4. There is a distinct difference in price for standing and having a coffee (90cents) and sitting down (euros 3-5). Save your sitting down for for when you
eat!!! If your having a beer session make sure you understand how much you will be charged for each drink (birra grande...a large bottle)
5. Any restaurant that displays menus in both English and Italian may not be so hot (not a hard and fast rule). Watch where Neapolitans have to queue to get
in (that's a good testimonial).
6. Crossing busy roads...Not much repect is paid to traffic lights. Napoli is a single human moving organism of which you will become a part. Watch how the
locals cross the road then copy them...pedestrian crossings are just decorations hehehehehehe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0h7JkkJUAs
7. Do not get paranoid about pickpockets just behave as you would in any major cities..men wallets in front pockets..on crowded metros or buses just lay your
arm across the outside of your pocket so you know its there...women, watch how Neapolitan women walk in public with handbags and copy.
8. Make sure you make at least 1 trip upto the Vomero by funicular. Then go to 1 of 3 venues for a spectacular view (Castel St Elmo - the best view, Villa
Floridiana, or San Martino Certosa)..thats if its sunny and not raining. Funicluars can be caught on the upper floor of Montesanto station or in Via Toledo
9. Do not be obnoxious to locals (the bush telegraph here is the quickest in the world), their dad will always be bigger than your dad, friendliness by you
will be returned 10 fold
10. There will probably be an alcohol ban on matchdays. I would imagine many restaurants will ignore this (Neapolitans are famous for only obeying the laws
that suit them). But you may find a drink hard to come by in the city unless you plan ahead
11. All the sh*t you've heard about Italian police is true for Rome BUT NOT for Napoli. In Naples they will go out of their way to protect you. You may even
be followed by plain clothes officers if they think you are vulnerable.
12. Be careful about buying iphones/cine cameras etc around Piazza Garribaldi from street hawkers. They'll give you a great demonstration even allowing you
to put your sim in and try it. Only thing is the lovely package you open in your hotel room contains a small brick!!! Any offer that seems too good probably
are. do not get involved in street gambling, YOU will always lose. I would say give this area a wide berth. Personally I have been there many times and it is
as Nelson descibed 2 centuries ago....fascinating stuff, but probably a no go area for football fans.
13. Do not allow any porters to handle your luggage.....they can be very demanding for tips.
14. Cakes are brilliant in Naples...make sure you eat a babba (heaven). try the sfoglitella served "caldo"(hot) very delicious...but generally speaking they
are masters of the bakery. Only eat pizzas at pizzerias with wood burning stoves (like a tiled dome with a small opening). Try the margherita you won't find
a better pizza anywhere in Italy as Napoli is the home of buffalo mozzarella and san marzano tomatoes. Seriously the margherita will make any pizza you have
ever eaten seem like shite. (note that the marinara pizza has no cheese on it )
15. Visit Spaccanapoli. The Centro Storico is full of hidden treasures...make sure you research fully before you go. Make sure you have a photo at Maradona's
shrine near Bar Nilo. Pop your head into the Church Gesu Nuovo (baroque architecture at its best). Check out Via Gregorio San Armeno for the presepe figures)
The finest statue in Italy can be found in the Capella San severo ( Off Via dei Tribunale). Please note that this area has recently been pedestrianised. The
Vico's (alleys) are very narrow and are full of scooters (this may not be the case when you go)so be careful crossing intersections.
16. Culture vultures you will find some of the best treasures in Italy in Napoli. Loads of museums so research it. Must visits are National Archealogical
Museum ( spell binding...get off Metro at Museo or Piazza Cavour).
Visit Il Duomo and see San Gennaro's Chapel (you realise how wealthy Napoli used to be).
17. Make sure you have a coffee in Caffe Gambrinus (stand do not sit) on the corner of Piazza del Plebiscito (near opera house and Royal Palace), and do some
people watching...fascinating
18. Watch groups of Neapolitans discuss football,life and politics (its not an argument its a discussion!!!)...so much passion.
19. Having read the fallout from Napoli's visit to Manchester you all made a really good impression on the neapolitans. But remember in every city there are
a few idiots. But FFS don't walk around with fear etched on your face...smile and enjoy.
20. Some great markets in Napoli (in every district so keep your eyes peeled)
21. If you have spaghetti vongole do not put parmigiano on it...they will think you are retarded!!! Save that for Ragu or bolongnese etc etc!!!
22. If you are on only a day trip make sure you at least see the Galleria and Piazza Del Plebiscito amd make at least a trip upto the Vomero on the funicular
to the castle St'Elmo for a view of the whole city.
23. If you wish to visit Pompei from Napoli get the metro to Piazza Garribaldi. You will need to catch the Circumvesuviana train that runs from here and is
sited to the right of the main station. Fare is 3-4 euros. If you are over 60 you are likely to get into Pompei free on production of your passport. Always
have a photocopy of your passport in your hotel room in case you lose it.
24. Don't wear heavy gold bracelets or chains and expensive watches (rolex)are an absolute no no....even Hamsik was mugged for his Rolex!!!
25. A special airport bus (ALIBUS) adapted to carry luggage can be caught at the airport that makes only 2 stops. Piazza Garribald and Piazza Municipio.
These 2 areas have the most hotels. Municipio is the best area. Fare 3 euros....much better than paying 25 for a taxi. Please note on your return journey
that the Alibus picks you up in a slighlty different place. For people from Piazza Garribaldi you will be picked up in Corso Novara about 60m from the corner
of the main train station. For those returning from Piazza Municipio to the airport the bus stops outside The Galleria on the opposite side of the road to
where you were dropped....this particular bus stop is getting moved all the time due to roadworks in the area so watch as the bus leaves you. It will go
round a roundabout...see where it stops and make a note.
26. Every year or 2 Napoli is drowned in a sea of garbage...this is an ongoing problem caused by the Camorra and politics. I hope that it's not the case when
you visit but be prepared for a possible stench!!!
STAYING SAFE IN NAPOLI
virtually all the incidents with Liverpool fans and Bayern fans happened in 2 areas...the streets around the main station (Piazza Garribaldi) or outside the
stadium. Contrary to popular belief proper Ultras do not use knives and slag off people that do. The people involved in this activity are known as "cani
sciolti" translated as 'mavericks'. Napoli have the largest Ultra following in Italy as you will see from the 2 packed Curvas A & B. Curva B is the home of
Ultras Napoli and Fedayn and used to be the traditional KOP ( it is now more old school)...Curva A is to your immediate right and has more naughty boys in
it.
Most incidents against visiting fans happened late at night after fans had been out drinking and were walking back to hotels. I had recommended that you get
hotels nearer the seafront or port area (Piazza Municipio) rather than the many hotels around the main train station. Bayern fans had a great time in this
area with no problems singing their heads off. If you visit Pompei you will to go to the main station for the train so be on your guard.
The area to the North of the train station is Rione Sanita a pretty rough area. The Centro Storico (Spaccanapoli) has many of Napoli's most important
treasures. It is a straight road 3-4 km long (the name of it changes many times) no wider than a single road, but opening up into mini squares. It starts in
The Quartieri Spagnoli and ends in Forcella. Some great bars and pizza places off this road. This street should only be seen in daylight but is a must see.
I was there when Liverpool played, and in fact ate in a restaurant in the Spanish Quarter on my own. There were 2 tables of Liverpool fans and we spoke to
each other across the restaurant with no problem. I'd say you are much safer in these areas as a couple or perhaps 3 or 4. If there are 6 or more you are not
going to be perceived as tourists but as football fans. Either group up large for safety in numbers and be obvious.... or go as couples (tourists).
Most of you will meet at the port on match day and be coached in under police escort to the stadium. You will also be dropped back there after the game and
it can be difficult to get a taxi back to your hotel. If you have a hotel near the seafront then no problem. For those making your way to the stadium independently go
discreetly. A band of 10 will attract attention so go as couples, and perhaps purchase a Napoli scarf in town during the day...plenty of street hawkers and
shops sell them.
Always maintain you are a tourist if asked if you are a hooligan or if you are City!!!! Do not get the impression this City is all bad we are talking a few
bad apples only. Neapolitan people have a tough life with the young people 40% unemployed. But they are generally very good people and their image is
tarnished by a minority.
Don't take a wallet full of credit cards with you (1 is sufficient) and only take the money you need for a day out when you leave your hotel. Read very
carefully the instructions that will be supplied from City via the British Consulate. As can be seen from other fans visits to the city of Naples virtually
all trouble will occur after dark when drinking is involved.
City fans were great hosts to Napoli at Eastlands and this has been noted. When you get to the hotel recce out the area for where you think you would like to
spend your time in the evening....but for heavens sake go and explore the city during the day as there is so much fascinating stuff to see.
VISITS
Some nice daytrips if the weather is nice. Capri (spectacular but expensive), Positano or Sorrento(has to be done by ferry for spectacular entry), Ischia and
Procida (2 more lovely Islands perhaps best done in summer), Pompei (train stops right outside entrance), Ercolano (Herculaneum), Pozzuoli (Port area)and
Solfatara. Posillipo Hill for post card pictures of Napoli (get the Mergellina funicular)...i think its 4 stops to the top...get out at each stop photograph
and then reboard funicular. This is the classic picture postcard of Napoli.
Must see monuments and landmarks:
Via Toledo Area near Port: The Galleria, San Carlo Theatre, Castel Nuovo (new castle) with glass floor of foundations complete with skeletons), Piazza
Plebiscito ( Royal Palace...see inside for a few euros, Basilica of San Franceso di Paolo, then photograph Vesuvius from the side of The Royal Palace. Then
walk to seafront and a few hundred yards to Castel dell'ovo (the egg castle), get the free lift to the ramparts for more great photo's. This area is Santa
Lucia a little fishing port but with a few nice but pricey restaurants.)
Then go back to Via Toledo and catch the Funicular Centrale up the Vomero Hill to see Castel St'Elmo (from the ramparts here is the very best view of Napoli
if the sun is out...totally spectacular with a 360 degree view. With all the pastel shades of the buildings you will think you are looking at an ancient
roman city). The lift here will cost you about 3 euros. If you feel really bold get the other funicular from Montesanto station. I say this because you will
have to walk up Via Pignasecca (off Piazza Carita) to Montesanto station which is the northern edge of the Spanish Quarter . A truly spectacular street and
for me a must see...it's like a beehive!!!!
Centro storico (historical centre) is a UNESCO world heritage site that Spaccanapoli splits in 2. Get a guide book for the area or just wander aimlessly and
enjoy. The Capella San Severo is a must in my book....but a whopping 6 euros to get in but well worth it. Here you will see the best sculpture in the whole
of Italy and a scary surprise when you go downstairs!!!! Don't miss Via San Gregorio Armeno to see the artists creating the presepe figures for christmas...a
lovely atmosphere this time of year.
The National Museum has its own Metro stop and is sited between Piazza Cavour and Piazza Garribaldi. It is indeed the finest musueum I have ever seen full of
Greek and Roman relics in pristine condition.
The museum of Capodimonte ( only buses available to here but full of great art)....its about 25 minute bus ride.
If you walk the length of Spaccanapoli at the Forcella end you will come to Il Duomo (the cathedral). This is where the liquefaction of the blood of St
Gennaro takes place a couple of times a year. If it does not liquefy then it is bad luck on the city for a year. Beautiful architecture inside...especially
St Gennaro's little chapel sited on the right.
I would recommend that everyone that is going for a number of days downloads Google earth so they can familiarise themselves with the city. Spaccanapoli is
best entered from Via Toledo. It's on the right but so narrow you can easily miss the opening. Every few hundred yards it open up into squares. The name
Spaccanapoli is not on any maps as it is a single street that changes names frequently. If you put into google earth Via toledo, piazza gesu nuovo, piazetta
del Nilo you will see they are all connected in a straight line (old Greek Road known as Spaccanapoli or split Naples)). You can also dodge of at Piazetta
del Nilo and walk up Via Nilo to Via Dei tribunali. At the top you will see Gino Sorbillo's pizzeria one of the best pizza's in Napoli. Via dei tribunali is
well worth investigating to.
Piazetta Del Nilo there is a bar called Bar Nilo look for the Maradona shrine outside!! But be sure to have a coffee or beer in the bar as the photo will
self destruct before you get back to England!!! Incidentally you will not get a better coffee in Italy as the water is from rivers inland that contain many
healthy minerals. Make sure you drink the coffee black with sugar and ask for a glass of water (acqua) with it (free)..drink the water then knock back the
cofffee..what flavour!!!
I have only scratched the surface of places to go...you could live here for 10 years and still not see all the things Napoli has to offer...but research will
guarantee you a better visit. Yes you will be shocked by beggars and poverty just as you are likely to see some great street musicians. And yes for the plebs
that don't have any taste buds there are a couple of McDonalds in the city!!!! "See Naples and die"....When you come back to England this city will have left
an indelible impression on you. There is more than one saying about Napoli... << when you come to Napoli you will cry....when you leave Napoli you will
cry'>>. This saying is for those that discover the soul of the city and will want to return. This will be 50% of you...the other 50% will describe it as a
shitehole. This is a city love or hate it...you cannot ignore it.
NOW FOR A FEW TIDBITS ABOUT NAPOLI AND FOOTBALL AND YOU
Firstly Neapolitans and I suspect most Italians are avid premier league fans. All the ones I know are subsribed to Sky and they get the choice of EVERY game
live (not selcted ones). So if there are 6 games on a Sat afternoon they can choose which ever they want.
The large decaying stadium has a capacity of 80,000 but there will be 20,000 empty seats when you go but it is a sellout!!!! This is because when they get
excited and jump up and down they cause damage to nearby flats, and the activity is recorded on sesmic monitors (being a volcanic region). The flats were
swaying and in danger of collapse so they decreased the the capacity by 1000 supporters each sellout game until a capacity was reached that is safe for the
apartments....hence 60,500!!!!
See the buildings rock - watch these vids you'll get the point!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_IVaBcksvA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I4O9tf2Eu4
60-70 years ago Napoli had a disastrous campaign in Serie A and lost every single game. The press labelled them donkeys. With typical humour and irony (which
you City fans have in abundance) they adopted O' Ciuccio (the donkey or dummy) as a symbol of the team!!!!
Napoli has 2 kops Curva A and Curva B. They are true Ultra curves and pay for their own choreography unlike other clubs in Italy.
They have the best away support in Italy but this is currently undermined as the ultras refuse to subscribe to the (Tessera) fancard (microchipped) for away
travel. Now they can only go to away games in europe. Normal Napoli fans do go to away games though.
Don't go flashing your flags before a game or this could happen!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Vdm63Y2Qk
Mostra and Campi Flegrei stations are right outside the ground.
The spectre of Maradona hangs heavy over Napoli, he is a god to this day and he gave them their only 2 Serie A titles and the uefa cup
They particularly hate Atalanta, Verona, Juventus, Roma, Lazio, Inter, AC Milan, Brescia, Cagliari
They particularly love Genoa (gemellagio- twinning) and are friends with Palermo and Catania (Sicilian brothers)
San Paolo is about the only running track stadium that generates an awesome atmosphere. Neapolitans are totally uninhibited and talk to anyone in the
stadium, and show their passion and feelings for their team big time.
The facilties in the stadium are piss poor
There is a 3m deep moat around pitch but if a ball goes down there its the supporters who will have it!!!!
Each year Napoli gets huge fines for pyrotechnics from the Italian league...be prepared for smoke and flares ( I love it). Even Bayern fans bought some and
put on a good show...you should to!!!
You can have flags on long poles but they musn't be solid wood
Stand with your mates cos you'll be lucky to see any row or seat numbers. Jump up and down and Poznan to your hearts content. Stewards are nice guys and will
let you enjoy yourselves to the hilt
Stewards on the running track wear hard hats!!!!!
Make sure you turn left and watch Curva B as they usually put on the best pre-martch choreography.
The players enter the arena from an underground tunnel in front of Curva B
The Neapolitan anthem is only ever played at the end of a game they have won ( o' surdato 'nnamurato - a soldier in love)
The curvas are policed by the fans and not stewards although the authorities are trying to change this. You will get hostile (verbal)banter across the divide
but even against Liverpool the Napoli capos keep there boys in order...see vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwa_uTDVFm8
Of course if you were a North Italian club you'd get an avalanche of missiles...but you'll be ok for sure.
I think the steel net cover on the away section has been semi demolished on uefa orders....although the portion that will seperate you from Curva A is
retained. It used to even have a roof on it!!!
Read your club instructions given to you carefully about your visit.
You are safer in the city in groups of 2-4....and just behave like a tourist. try to relax and enjoy the sights and sounds (but always be aware).
Bring home a bottle of Limoncello for the missus. If you like really strong cheese (extra extra mature) then go into a cheese shop and buy some provolone
piccante to take home...the proprietor will be happy for you to taste....it is orgasmic
Get some pictures we can all see on Bluemoon
Make sure in at least 1 restaurant you eat an antipasto (starter) that has ham or salami with Mozzarella (best eaten the day of manufacture). Forget the lump
of wax we call mozzarella in England..this stuff dripping with whey is fantastic!!!! Mozzarella is made locallly and is fresh beyond belief...even by the
time it has been transported to Rome it has lost some of its character.
Try and avoid the area around Piazza Garribaldi unless you are getting a train to Pompei...spend all your time in the Via Toledo area and SpaccaNapoli. The
Vomero and Posillipo hill are the best areas to get panorama photos of the city.
Getting to the ground. Take the route advised by your club. If you are going independently you can go from Montesanto station if you are in Via Toledo
area...if you are in Mergellina you are just 2 stops away (tickets for travel can be bought at tobacconists, newsagents and railway stations). If you are in Piazza Garribaldi you will go downstairs to the metro. The train that you want will
be labelled Pozzuoli. Disembark at Stations outside the ground are Mostra (100m) and Campi Flegrei (200m). You will be in 'Settore Ospiti (industry guests)
which unfortunately is right next to Curva A. It might pay you to walk right around the stadium to avoid this (or buy a half and half scarf). Best not
approach the stadium in large obvious groups if you are going away from the official transport. If you are 4 split into 2 groups of 2 walking 10m apart and blend in...act like you've been there before.
Incidentally all the street hawkers are out selling all sorts of gear....for 1 euro buy a little tube of borghetti a coffeee liqeure its really excellent...I
usually buy 1 for each half. If you are a smoker you'll love San Paolo...welcome back to old school football!!!!
Bayern Fans made some great banners for the game with good humour so think about it. They also bought loads of flares which was very impressive.
CURVA A
CURVA B
If you want some further insight into the psyche of Napoli go onto youtube and put 'passione by john turturro' into the search box. This film is available in
7 parts....a couple of them you may want to skip as they concern jazz..but you will understand that Napoli supplies all the best music in Italy.
I hope this guide helps you and I'll do my best to help you with any other queries that I haven't covered. No doubt some true Napoletani will add to this to
give a better insight into this maligned City. Sorry if this blog doesn't follow a logical sequence it was written over many nights and may be a bit repetitve, but I hope it is of some
help to you. I'm flying out on 19th and returning on 24th. So I expect to see lots of you guys around.
Ciao for now
Pete
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h338/pete12011/pulcinello.jpg
So where are you going?? Napoli is known as Partenopeo (Parthenopy), Città e Pulicenella (city of Punch - the famous Neapolitan character). Let's pull no
punches...some of you will return loving this iconic city and the rest will hate it with a vengance. It's Love or Hate, no in between!!!! It's edgy, it's
vibrant, it's beautiful, it's ugly,it has a soul, it's chaotic, it's coloured with grafitti, it's musical, it's got more history than the rest of Italy
combined, it's tragic, it's neglected, It's contradictory, it's full of innovative people operating on the margins of civilisation struggling to survive. In
a word it's beautiful and fascinating. Watch the traffic in the busy areas somehow everyone reaches their destination, my brother described it as a 'single
moving organism'. Somehow this city survives against all the odds (with no thanks to the Italian state). I have been going here ever since I was a little
kid....and used to marvel at the Scugnizzi (street urchins) jumping on the back of trams for a free ride!!!! Now they all own scooters)
It's controlled by the Camorra clans that the Italian government have allowed to flourish. Corruption is layered in this city, and the people have had
enough. A new energetic mayor battles constantly to try to improve the city but hits constant barriers. Napoli has its own UNESCO protected language although
the locals also speak Italian. They are fiercely proud of their heritage and do not consider themselves Italians...conversley the Italians of the North agree
that they are not Italians!!!
Once you arrive get the transport map from your hotel or tourist information booth. With great public transport You can easily get anywhere you want.
Vesuvio last blew in 1944 so it's due another explosion. The last earthquake was in the 1980's. Napoli straddles 2 active volcanic areas. Vesuvius and Campi
Flegrea (Fields of fire). You can visit Solfatara at Pozzuoli if you wish to see steaming fumeroles pouring out gasses and steam. 1 million people live on
top of this unstable environment and it's bound to affect their view of life. You can't stereotype the population of a city because there are all facets of
people and generalisations are wrong. If I were asked to sum up the average Neapolitan I would say energetic, passionate, full of humour, a sense of irony,
superstitious, tolerant of immigrants, obeys the laws they see as common sense but b*llocks to the rest, very proud of their unique heritage, a bit
indifferent to the rest of Italy because they feel discriminated against.
One of the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, and the most populated and richest city in europe in the 1600's. The DNA of the Neapolitanis made
up of a cocktail of flavours going back almost 3000 years that is unique in the Italian peninsular. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish, Germans,
even Yanks and Brits have left a legacy in Napoli in 1943. Spanish influence is huge on their language and culture, the mandolin, guitar, tambourine,
accordion, and castanets are peculiar to Napoli and the tarantella dance. Up until 1861 Napoli was one of the main 4 cities of Europe on a par with London,
Paris and Vienna and part of the 'Grand Tour'. Goethe described it as a 'a paradise occupied by devils'. Nelson described it 'as country of fiddlers and
poets, whores and scoundrels'. Unifiction saw Napoli stripped of all its wealth, and taxed into poverty. So dire were conditions that 6 million people left
the port of Napoli between 1860-1910. This emigration continues to this day as Italy shamefully pretends Napoli doesn't exist. Napoli suffered horrndously in
WW2. Bombed by Yanks, Brits and Germans 20,000 people died and 100,000 were made homeless. The Neapolitans drove the Germans out in the fabled '4 days of
October' as the allies landed in nearby Salerno. For this the city was awarded 'The Gold Medal of Valour'. Even young Scugnizzi took up arms.
San Paolo is as close as you will get to South American type fans in Europe. Very passionate and very loud. Proper fans that are not bankrolled by the club
as you get in the North of Italy. Like City they are well supported and even had a gate of 51,000 when they were in serie C a few years back. Napoli will
always struggle to compete with the Northern clubs because of finances...but they are doing their best...but it is always difficult for them to hang onto
their star players.
1. Don't hire a car...traffic lights are merely ornaments..and the amount of motorini (scooters) is unbelievable. Use public transport it is cheap and well integrated
and saves you the hassle of driving. From memory you pay euro 1.60 for 2 hours travel within the city. The 2 hours start when you validate your ticket on the
little machine in the bus or at train station. Make sure you do it or if you get caught you pay 100 times the value of the ticket. A ticket entitles you to
more than 1 journey within the city limits. So you can use all modes of transport (buses, trams, metro, trains, and funiculars) for a period of 2 hours with
the same ticket...now that is VFM.
who needs traffic lights...see link below ( and this is one of the quieter times!!!)...Recommendation - DON'T DRIVE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnFFdgWR2Q8
You can see only 50% wear helmets even though it is law...as I said Neapolitans only obey the laws that suit them!!!!!
2. Taxi drivers...they all nutters and great fun but ask for a price before you get in...or insist the meter is switched on. Only use official city taxis
(usually white in colour)
3. A Neapolitan told me there are 3 prices in the city. 1 price for Neapolitans, 1 price for Italian tourists, and 1 price for other tourists. No one will
get offended if you discuss prices.) If you get rippped YOU are to blame...learn the phrase Quanta costa..(how much?)
4. There is a distinct difference in price for standing and having a coffee (90cents) and sitting down (euros 3-5). Save your sitting down for for when you
eat!!! If your having a beer session make sure you understand how much you will be charged for each drink (birra grande...a large bottle)
5. Any restaurant that displays menus in both English and Italian may not be so hot (not a hard and fast rule). Watch where Neapolitans have to queue to get
in (that's a good testimonial).
6. Crossing busy roads...Not much repect is paid to traffic lights. Napoli is a single human moving organism of which you will become a part. Watch how the
locals cross the road then copy them...pedestrian crossings are just decorations hehehehehehe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0h7JkkJUAs
7. Do not get paranoid about pickpockets just behave as you would in any major cities..men wallets in front pockets..on crowded metros or buses just lay your
arm across the outside of your pocket so you know its there...women, watch how Neapolitan women walk in public with handbags and copy.
8. Make sure you make at least 1 trip upto the Vomero by funicular. Then go to 1 of 3 venues for a spectacular view (Castel St Elmo - the best view, Villa
Floridiana, or San Martino Certosa)..thats if its sunny and not raining. Funicluars can be caught on the upper floor of Montesanto station or in Via Toledo
9. Do not be obnoxious to locals (the bush telegraph here is the quickest in the world), their dad will always be bigger than your dad, friendliness by you
will be returned 10 fold
10. There will probably be an alcohol ban on matchdays. I would imagine many restaurants will ignore this (Neapolitans are famous for only obeying the laws
that suit them). But you may find a drink hard to come by in the city unless you plan ahead
11. All the sh*t you've heard about Italian police is true for Rome BUT NOT for Napoli. In Naples they will go out of their way to protect you. You may even
be followed by plain clothes officers if they think you are vulnerable.
12. Be careful about buying iphones/cine cameras etc around Piazza Garribaldi from street hawkers. They'll give you a great demonstration even allowing you
to put your sim in and try it. Only thing is the lovely package you open in your hotel room contains a small brick!!! Any offer that seems too good probably
are. do not get involved in street gambling, YOU will always lose. I would say give this area a wide berth. Personally I have been there many times and it is
as Nelson descibed 2 centuries ago....fascinating stuff, but probably a no go area for football fans.
13. Do not allow any porters to handle your luggage.....they can be very demanding for tips.
14. Cakes are brilliant in Naples...make sure you eat a babba (heaven). try the sfoglitella served "caldo"(hot) very delicious...but generally speaking they
are masters of the bakery. Only eat pizzas at pizzerias with wood burning stoves (like a tiled dome with a small opening). Try the margherita you won't find
a better pizza anywhere in Italy as Napoli is the home of buffalo mozzarella and san marzano tomatoes. Seriously the margherita will make any pizza you have
ever eaten seem like shite. (note that the marinara pizza has no cheese on it )
15. Visit Spaccanapoli. The Centro Storico is full of hidden treasures...make sure you research fully before you go. Make sure you have a photo at Maradona's
shrine near Bar Nilo. Pop your head into the Church Gesu Nuovo (baroque architecture at its best). Check out Via Gregorio San Armeno for the presepe figures)
The finest statue in Italy can be found in the Capella San severo ( Off Via dei Tribunale). Please note that this area has recently been pedestrianised. The
Vico's (alleys) are very narrow and are full of scooters (this may not be the case when you go)so be careful crossing intersections.
16. Culture vultures you will find some of the best treasures in Italy in Napoli. Loads of museums so research it. Must visits are National Archealogical
Museum ( spell binding...get off Metro at Museo or Piazza Cavour).
Visit Il Duomo and see San Gennaro's Chapel (you realise how wealthy Napoli used to be).
17. Make sure you have a coffee in Caffe Gambrinus (stand do not sit) on the corner of Piazza del Plebiscito (near opera house and Royal Palace), and do some
people watching...fascinating
18. Watch groups of Neapolitans discuss football,life and politics (its not an argument its a discussion!!!)...so much passion.
19. Having read the fallout from Napoli's visit to Manchester you all made a really good impression on the neapolitans. But remember in every city there are
a few idiots. But FFS don't walk around with fear etched on your face...smile and enjoy.
20. Some great markets in Napoli (in every district so keep your eyes peeled)
21. If you have spaghetti vongole do not put parmigiano on it...they will think you are retarded!!! Save that for Ragu or bolongnese etc etc!!!
22. If you are on only a day trip make sure you at least see the Galleria and Piazza Del Plebiscito amd make at least a trip upto the Vomero on the funicular
to the castle St'Elmo for a view of the whole city.
23. If you wish to visit Pompei from Napoli get the metro to Piazza Garribaldi. You will need to catch the Circumvesuviana train that runs from here and is
sited to the right of the main station. Fare is 3-4 euros. If you are over 60 you are likely to get into Pompei free on production of your passport. Always
have a photocopy of your passport in your hotel room in case you lose it.
24. Don't wear heavy gold bracelets or chains and expensive watches (rolex)are an absolute no no....even Hamsik was mugged for his Rolex!!!
25. A special airport bus (ALIBUS) adapted to carry luggage can be caught at the airport that makes only 2 stops. Piazza Garribald and Piazza Municipio.
These 2 areas have the most hotels. Municipio is the best area. Fare 3 euros....much better than paying 25 for a taxi. Please note on your return journey
that the Alibus picks you up in a slighlty different place. For people from Piazza Garribaldi you will be picked up in Corso Novara about 60m from the corner
of the main train station. For those returning from Piazza Municipio to the airport the bus stops outside The Galleria on the opposite side of the road to
where you were dropped....this particular bus stop is getting moved all the time due to roadworks in the area so watch as the bus leaves you. It will go
round a roundabout...see where it stops and make a note.
26. Every year or 2 Napoli is drowned in a sea of garbage...this is an ongoing problem caused by the Camorra and politics. I hope that it's not the case when
you visit but be prepared for a possible stench!!!
STAYING SAFE IN NAPOLI
virtually all the incidents with Liverpool fans and Bayern fans happened in 2 areas...the streets around the main station (Piazza Garribaldi) or outside the
stadium. Contrary to popular belief proper Ultras do not use knives and slag off people that do. The people involved in this activity are known as "cani
sciolti" translated as 'mavericks'. Napoli have the largest Ultra following in Italy as you will see from the 2 packed Curvas A & B. Curva B is the home of
Ultras Napoli and Fedayn and used to be the traditional KOP ( it is now more old school)...Curva A is to your immediate right and has more naughty boys in
it.
Most incidents against visiting fans happened late at night after fans had been out drinking and were walking back to hotels. I had recommended that you get
hotels nearer the seafront or port area (Piazza Municipio) rather than the many hotels around the main train station. Bayern fans had a great time in this
area with no problems singing their heads off. If you visit Pompei you will to go to the main station for the train so be on your guard.
The area to the North of the train station is Rione Sanita a pretty rough area. The Centro Storico (Spaccanapoli) has many of Napoli's most important
treasures. It is a straight road 3-4 km long (the name of it changes many times) no wider than a single road, but opening up into mini squares. It starts in
The Quartieri Spagnoli and ends in Forcella. Some great bars and pizza places off this road. This street should only be seen in daylight but is a must see.
I was there when Liverpool played, and in fact ate in a restaurant in the Spanish Quarter on my own. There were 2 tables of Liverpool fans and we spoke to
each other across the restaurant with no problem. I'd say you are much safer in these areas as a couple or perhaps 3 or 4. If there are 6 or more you are not
going to be perceived as tourists but as football fans. Either group up large for safety in numbers and be obvious.... or go as couples (tourists).
Most of you will meet at the port on match day and be coached in under police escort to the stadium. You will also be dropped back there after the game and
it can be difficult to get a taxi back to your hotel. If you have a hotel near the seafront then no problem. For those making your way to the stadium independently go
discreetly. A band of 10 will attract attention so go as couples, and perhaps purchase a Napoli scarf in town during the day...plenty of street hawkers and
shops sell them.
Always maintain you are a tourist if asked if you are a hooligan or if you are City!!!! Do not get the impression this City is all bad we are talking a few
bad apples only. Neapolitan people have a tough life with the young people 40% unemployed. But they are generally very good people and their image is
tarnished by a minority.
Don't take a wallet full of credit cards with you (1 is sufficient) and only take the money you need for a day out when you leave your hotel. Read very
carefully the instructions that will be supplied from City via the British Consulate. As can be seen from other fans visits to the city of Naples virtually
all trouble will occur after dark when drinking is involved.
City fans were great hosts to Napoli at Eastlands and this has been noted. When you get to the hotel recce out the area for where you think you would like to
spend your time in the evening....but for heavens sake go and explore the city during the day as there is so much fascinating stuff to see.
VISITS
Some nice daytrips if the weather is nice. Capri (spectacular but expensive), Positano or Sorrento(has to be done by ferry for spectacular entry), Ischia and
Procida (2 more lovely Islands perhaps best done in summer), Pompei (train stops right outside entrance), Ercolano (Herculaneum), Pozzuoli (Port area)and
Solfatara. Posillipo Hill for post card pictures of Napoli (get the Mergellina funicular)...i think its 4 stops to the top...get out at each stop photograph
and then reboard funicular. This is the classic picture postcard of Napoli.
Must see monuments and landmarks:
Via Toledo Area near Port: The Galleria, San Carlo Theatre, Castel Nuovo (new castle) with glass floor of foundations complete with skeletons), Piazza
Plebiscito ( Royal Palace...see inside for a few euros, Basilica of San Franceso di Paolo, then photograph Vesuvius from the side of The Royal Palace. Then
walk to seafront and a few hundred yards to Castel dell'ovo (the egg castle), get the free lift to the ramparts for more great photo's. This area is Santa
Lucia a little fishing port but with a few nice but pricey restaurants.)
Then go back to Via Toledo and catch the Funicular Centrale up the Vomero Hill to see Castel St'Elmo (from the ramparts here is the very best view of Napoli
if the sun is out...totally spectacular with a 360 degree view. With all the pastel shades of the buildings you will think you are looking at an ancient
roman city). The lift here will cost you about 3 euros. If you feel really bold get the other funicular from Montesanto station. I say this because you will
have to walk up Via Pignasecca (off Piazza Carita) to Montesanto station which is the northern edge of the Spanish Quarter . A truly spectacular street and
for me a must see...it's like a beehive!!!!
Centro storico (historical centre) is a UNESCO world heritage site that Spaccanapoli splits in 2. Get a guide book for the area or just wander aimlessly and
enjoy. The Capella San Severo is a must in my book....but a whopping 6 euros to get in but well worth it. Here you will see the best sculpture in the whole
of Italy and a scary surprise when you go downstairs!!!! Don't miss Via San Gregorio Armeno to see the artists creating the presepe figures for christmas...a
lovely atmosphere this time of year.
The National Museum has its own Metro stop and is sited between Piazza Cavour and Piazza Garribaldi. It is indeed the finest musueum I have ever seen full of
Greek and Roman relics in pristine condition.
The museum of Capodimonte ( only buses available to here but full of great art)....its about 25 minute bus ride.
If you walk the length of Spaccanapoli at the Forcella end you will come to Il Duomo (the cathedral). This is where the liquefaction of the blood of St
Gennaro takes place a couple of times a year. If it does not liquefy then it is bad luck on the city for a year. Beautiful architecture inside...especially
St Gennaro's little chapel sited on the right.
I would recommend that everyone that is going for a number of days downloads Google earth so they can familiarise themselves with the city. Spaccanapoli is
best entered from Via Toledo. It's on the right but so narrow you can easily miss the opening. Every few hundred yards it open up into squares. The name
Spaccanapoli is not on any maps as it is a single street that changes names frequently. If you put into google earth Via toledo, piazza gesu nuovo, piazetta
del Nilo you will see they are all connected in a straight line (old Greek Road known as Spaccanapoli or split Naples)). You can also dodge of at Piazetta
del Nilo and walk up Via Nilo to Via Dei tribunali. At the top you will see Gino Sorbillo's pizzeria one of the best pizza's in Napoli. Via dei tribunali is
well worth investigating to.
Piazetta Del Nilo there is a bar called Bar Nilo look for the Maradona shrine outside!! But be sure to have a coffee or beer in the bar as the photo will
self destruct before you get back to England!!! Incidentally you will not get a better coffee in Italy as the water is from rivers inland that contain many
healthy minerals. Make sure you drink the coffee black with sugar and ask for a glass of water (acqua) with it (free)..drink the water then knock back the
cofffee..what flavour!!!
I have only scratched the surface of places to go...you could live here for 10 years and still not see all the things Napoli has to offer...but research will
guarantee you a better visit. Yes you will be shocked by beggars and poverty just as you are likely to see some great street musicians. And yes for the plebs
that don't have any taste buds there are a couple of McDonalds in the city!!!! "See Naples and die"....When you come back to England this city will have left
an indelible impression on you. There is more than one saying about Napoli... << when you come to Napoli you will cry....when you leave Napoli you will
cry'>>. This saying is for those that discover the soul of the city and will want to return. This will be 50% of you...the other 50% will describe it as a
shitehole. This is a city love or hate it...you cannot ignore it.
NOW FOR A FEW TIDBITS ABOUT NAPOLI AND FOOTBALL AND YOU
Firstly Neapolitans and I suspect most Italians are avid premier league fans. All the ones I know are subsribed to Sky and they get the choice of EVERY game
live (not selcted ones). So if there are 6 games on a Sat afternoon they can choose which ever they want.
The large decaying stadium has a capacity of 80,000 but there will be 20,000 empty seats when you go but it is a sellout!!!! This is because when they get
excited and jump up and down they cause damage to nearby flats, and the activity is recorded on sesmic monitors (being a volcanic region). The flats were
swaying and in danger of collapse so they decreased the the capacity by 1000 supporters each sellout game until a capacity was reached that is safe for the
apartments....hence 60,500!!!!
See the buildings rock - watch these vids you'll get the point!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_IVaBcksvA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I4O9tf2Eu4
60-70 years ago Napoli had a disastrous campaign in Serie A and lost every single game. The press labelled them donkeys. With typical humour and irony (which
you City fans have in abundance) they adopted O' Ciuccio (the donkey or dummy) as a symbol of the team!!!!
Napoli has 2 kops Curva A and Curva B. They are true Ultra curves and pay for their own choreography unlike other clubs in Italy.
They have the best away support in Italy but this is currently undermined as the ultras refuse to subscribe to the (Tessera) fancard (microchipped) for away
travel. Now they can only go to away games in europe. Normal Napoli fans do go to away games though.
Don't go flashing your flags before a game or this could happen!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Vdm63Y2Qk
Mostra and Campi Flegrei stations are right outside the ground.
The spectre of Maradona hangs heavy over Napoli, he is a god to this day and he gave them their only 2 Serie A titles and the uefa cup
They particularly hate Atalanta, Verona, Juventus, Roma, Lazio, Inter, AC Milan, Brescia, Cagliari
They particularly love Genoa (gemellagio- twinning) and are friends with Palermo and Catania (Sicilian brothers)
San Paolo is about the only running track stadium that generates an awesome atmosphere. Neapolitans are totally uninhibited and talk to anyone in the
stadium, and show their passion and feelings for their team big time.
The facilties in the stadium are piss poor
There is a 3m deep moat around pitch but if a ball goes down there its the supporters who will have it!!!!
Each year Napoli gets huge fines for pyrotechnics from the Italian league...be prepared for smoke and flares ( I love it). Even Bayern fans bought some and
put on a good show...you should to!!!
You can have flags on long poles but they musn't be solid wood
Stand with your mates cos you'll be lucky to see any row or seat numbers. Jump up and down and Poznan to your hearts content. Stewards are nice guys and will
let you enjoy yourselves to the hilt
Stewards on the running track wear hard hats!!!!!
Make sure you turn left and watch Curva B as they usually put on the best pre-martch choreography.
The players enter the arena from an underground tunnel in front of Curva B
The Neapolitan anthem is only ever played at the end of a game they have won ( o' surdato 'nnamurato - a soldier in love)
The curvas are policed by the fans and not stewards although the authorities are trying to change this. You will get hostile (verbal)banter across the divide
but even against Liverpool the Napoli capos keep there boys in order...see vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwa_uTDVFm8
Of course if you were a North Italian club you'd get an avalanche of missiles...but you'll be ok for sure.
I think the steel net cover on the away section has been semi demolished on uefa orders....although the portion that will seperate you from Curva A is
retained. It used to even have a roof on it!!!
Read your club instructions given to you carefully about your visit.
You are safer in the city in groups of 2-4....and just behave like a tourist. try to relax and enjoy the sights and sounds (but always be aware).
Bring home a bottle of Limoncello for the missus. If you like really strong cheese (extra extra mature) then go into a cheese shop and buy some provolone
piccante to take home...the proprietor will be happy for you to taste....it is orgasmic
Get some pictures we can all see on Bluemoon
Make sure in at least 1 restaurant you eat an antipasto (starter) that has ham or salami with Mozzarella (best eaten the day of manufacture). Forget the lump
of wax we call mozzarella in England..this stuff dripping with whey is fantastic!!!! Mozzarella is made locallly and is fresh beyond belief...even by the
time it has been transported to Rome it has lost some of its character.
Try and avoid the area around Piazza Garribaldi unless you are getting a train to Pompei...spend all your time in the Via Toledo area and SpaccaNapoli. The
Vomero and Posillipo hill are the best areas to get panorama photos of the city.
Getting to the ground. Take the route advised by your club. If you are going independently you can go from Montesanto station if you are in Via Toledo
area...if you are in Mergellina you are just 2 stops away (tickets for travel can be bought at tobacconists, newsagents and railway stations). If you are in Piazza Garribaldi you will go downstairs to the metro. The train that you want will
be labelled Pozzuoli. Disembark at Stations outside the ground are Mostra (100m) and Campi Flegrei (200m). You will be in 'Settore Ospiti (industry guests)
which unfortunately is right next to Curva A. It might pay you to walk right around the stadium to avoid this (or buy a half and half scarf). Best not
approach the stadium in large obvious groups if you are going away from the official transport. If you are 4 split into 2 groups of 2 walking 10m apart and blend in...act like you've been there before.
Incidentally all the street hawkers are out selling all sorts of gear....for 1 euro buy a little tube of borghetti a coffeee liqeure its really excellent...I
usually buy 1 for each half. If you are a smoker you'll love San Paolo...welcome back to old school football!!!!
Bayern Fans made some great banners for the game with good humour so think about it. They also bought loads of flares which was very impressive.
CURVA A
CURVA B
If you want some further insight into the psyche of Napoli go onto youtube and put 'passione by john turturro' into the search box. This film is available in
7 parts....a couple of them you may want to skip as they concern jazz..but you will understand that Napoli supplies all the best music in Italy.
I hope this guide helps you and I'll do my best to help you with any other queries that I haven't covered. No doubt some true Napoletani will add to this to
give a better insight into this maligned City. Sorry if this blog doesn't follow a logical sequence it was written over many nights and may be a bit repetitve, but I hope it is of some
help to you. I'm flying out on 19th and returning on 24th. So I expect to see lots of you guys around.
Ciao for now
Pete
