Red Star vs Partisan Belgrade is the best derby I've been to. The football itself was gash, but the atmosphere around the city for days before and after the game was amazing. The noise inside the Marakana was incredible - both sets of fans take specially-prepared banners, fireworks and scarves and their whole game is painstakingly-choreographed. God knows how they get their fireworks in though, I was searched and had a yellow highlighter pen taken from me as I walked in to the ground.
Oh, and they don't have a programme, the fans sit and read porn mags prior to the game.
(It's not in England, though. Sorry.)