Photography

I'll be shooting 2 cameras, and I've been given a buggy to lug my kit round. I'm mainly going to be shooting in and around the tee's and green's, probably a few out of the bunker's. I'm happy to heavily crop for any fairway long shots as I don't really need the pixels.

I had a 35mm & 50mm f1.8 when I was shooting Cannon, but switched to Sony, and went with an FE 24-105mm f4, which will do me for group shots and narrative type shots. The 70-200mm is mainly for isolating players in and around the tee's, green's and bunkers, and also for the presentation ceremony afterwards. Again, I had a longer lens in my Cannon days, but I didn't really get that much use out of it.

I'll probably end up switching out the 24-105mm for a 24-70mm, f2.8 at some point, although I do like the versatility of the 24-105 for street photography.
Well,

Went with the FE-70-200mm f2.8 GM OSS in the end (Mk 1, because I can't afford to spank $3400 on a lens), and I've just spent 6 hours on a beautiful golf course at a number of holes photographing 6 groups of 4-ball's and a presentation ceremony. I'm absolutely bolloxed.

Ended up with around 1600 shots, shooting in high burst mode for a large portion of the afternoon. Luckily, Adobe have just added 'Assisted Culling' in their latest update for Lightroom, so we'll see how that performs...
 
I’m typically looking to use my iPad to carry out editing of raw files as well as jpegs.
I currently use photoshop express which is about the best I have found so far, but to be honest, it’s pretty basic.
I run photoshop elements on my iMac, which is great for more involved edits, but it’s not portable enough & more than I need for most of the editing I want to do.
Can anyone recommend a a good photo editing app to use on a new iPad?
It's a bit after the event but have you looked Affinity software?

I have used Affinity photo for a few years and it doesn't require a subscription so you pay once and any updates to that version are free.

Also this week they launched a full photo editing / publishing suite which is completely free.

It has most of the functionality of Photoshop but without the huge financial layout.
 
It's a bit after the event but have you looked Affinity software?

I have used Affinity photo for a few years and it doesn't require a subscription so you pay once and any updates to that version are free.

Also this week they launched a full photo editing / publishing suite which is completely free.

It has most of the functionality of Photoshop but without the huge financial layout.
Thanks for this, I will check it out.
 
Well,

Went with the FE-70-200mm f2.8 GM OSS in the end (Mk 1, because I can't afford to spank $3400 on a lens), and I've just spent 6 hours on a beautiful golf course at a number of holes photographing 6 groups of 4-ball's and a presentation ceremony. I'm absolutely bolloxed.

Ended up with around 1600 shots, shooting in high burst mode for a large portion of the afternoon. Luckily, Adobe have just added 'Assisted Culling' in their latest update for Lightroom, so we'll see how that performs...
Update:

Assisted culling got rid of just 260 blurry or out of focus images, which I'm very happy with given I shot over 1600 frames on my primary camera (I haven't got round to my second camera yet which probably has another 200 shots on it). Having manually culled all the mis-timed and uninteresting compositions, I'm left with 155 useable shots, or a little under 10% of what I shot. Of those 155 images I have 10 really decent shots which is a really good result.

Of all the group images I shot, I took three or four shots of each composition, because you can almost guarantee one person in each frame is blinking, so it's over to Photoshop to do an eye swap as required. I still like to do it the old fashioned way with masking and blending modes, even though you can pretty much do a single-click AI edit for those kind of things these days.

Overall, a rewarding experience as it was a charity event, but I'm not sure it's something I could do full time professionally as I enjoy the creative process too much. Commercial photographers only seem to spend a small percentage of their time actually photographing and even less photographing for their own art. The rest is editing, admin, marketing and other business related stuff. Maybe fine art photography on the side might be an option?
 
Update:

Assisted culling got rid of just 260 blurry or out of focus images, which I'm very happy with given I shot over 1600 frames on my primary camera (I haven't got round to my second camera yet which probably has another 200 shots on it). Having manually culled all the mis-timed and uninteresting compositions, I'm left with 155 useable shots, or a little under 10% of what I shot. Of those 155 images I have 10 really decent shots which is a really good result.

Of all the group images I shot, I took three or four shots of each composition, because you can almost guarantee one person in each frame is blinking, so it's over to Photoshop to do an eye swap as required. I still like to do it the old fashioned way with masking and blending modes, even though you can pretty much do a single-click AI edit for those kind of things these days.

Overall, a rewarding experience as it was a charity event, but I'm not sure it's something I could do full time professionally as I enjoy the creative process too much. Commercial photographers only seem to spend a small percentage of their time actually photographing and even less photographing for their own art. The rest is editing, admin, marketing and other business related stuff. Maybe fine art photography on the side might be an option?
Yes when I shoot sports (typically just school sports these days but I've done golf, rugby, football, horse racing, running) I'd probably expect 10% of shots to be keepers, and if I get a couple that I'm very pleased with then all the better.

I spend about as much time processing photos as I do taking them, and charge accordingly, and I think the post-processing is at least 50% of the job. In fact, when you're photographing sports, there's just a whole load of luck involved. Yes, you can put yourself in the right place sometimes, but much is blind luck. You still need to know your kit inside out, but that's a given when charging money.

I certainly don't call myself a pro, because I only work for one independent school, but that's enough for me at my age and they keep me plenty busy enough.

Funnily enough (or maybe this is common), I have zero interest in photography as a hobby. Sometimes I'll take a few bird photos in my garden, but that's about it. That's why I very rarely buy kit, because it has to pay for itself (or because I destroyed it), and the school never says my photos aren't good enough (far from it). Last purchase was that 70-200 f/4, and before that a Z6 three years ago. Always second hand from a reputable supplier.
 
Yes when I shoot sports (typically just school sports these days but I've done golf, rugby, football, horse racing, running) I'd probably expect 10% of shots to be keepers, and if I get a couple that I'm very pleased with then all the better.

I spend about as much time processing photos as I do taking them, and charge accordingly, and I think the post-processing is at least 50% of the job. In fact, when you're photographing sports, there's just a whole load of luck involved. Yes, you can put yourself in the right place sometimes, but much is blind luck. You still need to know your kit inside out, but that's a given when charging money.

I certainly don't call myself a pro, because I only work for one independent school, but that's enough for me at my age and they keep me plenty busy enough.

Funnily enough (or maybe this is common), I have zero interest in photography as a hobby. Sometimes I'll take a few bird photos in my garden, but that's about it. That's why I very rarely buy kit, because it has to pay for itself (or because I destroyed it), and the school never says my photos aren't good enough (far from it). Last purchase was that 70-200 f/4, and before that a Z6 three years ago. Always second hand from a reputable supplier.
Apologies for the late reply. Missed the notification.

I'm similar with processing times, although I have sped up my work flow quite a bit from when I started, mainly in being a little more ruthless with my image culling. I do a first pass with flagging the useable shots then I filter by flag and do another quick pass and add a star to all the images I like, then I'll filter by flag and star, check how many I've selected and then keep repeating the process with 2, 3, 4 & 5 stars until I have a have a good amount selected (30-40 depending what I need). These are the ones I'll process.

Processing is pretty basic for work stuff. Auto tone, lens profile and remove chromatic aberration are done automatically on import, and once imported I normally crop, straighten and perspective correct if needed. I then adjust white balance (I shoot mainly in AWB), colour correct and adjust exposures to match and that's pretty much it unless I need to do any spot dust spot removal. Finally, if I need to do anything fancy in Photoshop, I'll save that until I've finished the batch in Lightroom.

For my own work it all depends what I've shot and I usually take a whole lot longer on the edits.

I've created a whole load of export presets so I can batch export to all the major social media image sizes, or standard print sizes and I also have print profiles for the different photo labs I use for printing.

As for gear, I'll normally buy new, but never the latest model and I'll pretty much run it into the ground before replacing it. I'm still using an A7Mk1 for some stuff. It's steam driven next to my Mk3 but perfectly useable where I can afford to work slowly.
 
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Lots of good stuff there, looks like some decent efficiency for your way of working.

I just upgraded my graphics card to an RTX 3060 and AI noise reduction that used to take four minutes now takes eight seconds. An astonishing improvement which basically means I'm exporting cleaner shots every time I'm shooting around 1,000 ISO and above. I did a theatre shoot this week, and chucked noise reduction at 400 shots, knowing that processing time would be perfectly acceptable. I tend to set to around 30% NR, the default 50% is too high, and leaves images looking a little fake. Sadly you can't change the default, but it's no big deal to do one photo, reduce to 30% and then paste that onto all the others.

Happy shooting.
 
I love the pictures that the new phones take but they’re not always 100% how they look in real life, a lot of the recent Northern Lights photos being good examples. I just walked back to my house and yes the moon is bright but I didn’t see such clarity
IMG_4513.jpegIMG_4511.jpeg
 
Got a work-related photography job on Friday, and I've been loaned a Nikon D610/Nikkor 24-70, f2.8 to do the job with as personal cameras are not allowed on site. It'll be the first time I've shot with a Nikon in anger since I ran some films through my mates FE2 in the mid 80's.

I've just had a play with it just now, and I'm way out of my comfort zone. I was a little bit like that when I switched from Cannon to Sony, but at least the lens turns the same way when you attach it to the body. Also, I can't find any of the settings easily, and I'm so used to mirrorless now that I'm probably going to have to bracket the exposures, or spot meter. They also want me to shoot in JPEG, which I'm not overly happy about.

Basically, with my personal kit everything is intuitive, so that I can just whack it on the tripod, set up the composition, rattle of 5 or 6 frames, job done. Going back to DSLR, and unfamiliar camera at that is going to be a slow steady process.

Fun times.
 
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Lots of good stuff there, looks like some decent efficiency for your way of working.

I just upgraded my graphics card to an RTX 3060 and AI noise reduction that used to take four minutes now takes eight seconds. An astonishing improvement which basically means I'm exporting cleaner shots every time I'm shooting around 1,000 ISO and above. I did a theatre shoot this week, and chucked noise reduction at 400 shots, knowing that processing time would be perfectly acceptable. I tend to set to around 30% NR, the default 50% is too high, and leaves images looking a little fake. Sadly you can't change the default, but it's no big deal to do one photo, reduce to 30% and then paste that onto all the others.

Happy shooting.
8 seconds is astonishingly fast for AI NR.

AI NR takes around 4 minutes for a 24MB RAW file on my laptop. If I'm using manual NR I normally set the masking quite high (>85%) and then crank the NR until it just starts to show artifacts and then back it off from there. I find it's quite acceptable for most low-res JPEG's.

AI is a game changer though ;-)
 
Got a work-related photography job on Friday, and I've been loaned a Nikon D610/Nikkor 24-70, f2.8 to do the job with as personal cameras are not allowed on site. It'll be the first time I've shot with a Nikon in anger since I ran some films through my mates FE2 in the mid 80's.

I've just had a play with it just now, and I'm way out of my comfort zone. I was a little bit like that when I switched from Cannon to Sony, but at least the lens turns the same way when you attach it to the body. Also, I can't find any of the settings easily, and I'm so used to mirrorless now that I'm probably going to have to bracket the exposures, or spot meter. They also want me to shoot in JPEG, which I'm not overly happy about.

Basically, with my personal kit everything is intuitive, so that I can just whack it on the tripod, set up the composition, rattle of 5 or 6 frames, job done. Going back to DSLR, and unfamiliar camera at that is going to be a slow steady process.

Fun times.
Well, that was stressful. A group photograph for 80+ people where the client was adamant that everyone face a certain. Add low angled direct sunlight and a cluttered background into the mix and it made for really difficult shooting conditions. I was begging for a cloudy start to the day.

Well, they'll get what they get. Can't say I didn't warn them.
 

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